Building an engine & a bike from random parts - 1979 - 1981

This is a 1981 crank case with the minimized anti-foaming insert. Clutch side.

If I'm not mistaken, that's a slipper clutch! Never realized the 1300 had one - or is that just some kind of damper??

StanG wrote:

Stan, absolutely awesome set of pics! Thank you!

Just looking at how clean yours is, I definitely have some cleaning to do! I found a bit of wood in the drip tray I used to flush the engine with diesel the other day - a left over from my getting the rusted cylinder tub off (block hammer and block of wood...:ohmy:

I got the oil pump off today, but have not got the clutch off... I don't have a puller, but looking at your pics, I cam probably leave that connected as I can slip the new secondary chain on from the other side of the shaft.

Have you a pic of the bottom half of the crankcase where I presume the gear shifter mechanism with the shift forks are still attached?

My main fear is that when I split the crankcase, something falls out without me knowing where it came from...

Attached pics of the engine on its side on the table frame, on a plank on wheels... The benefit of teh frame being that I can turn the engine over without having to remove the cylinder studs (which I can't get out).

Paul

Bucko, that's a damper assisting smooth transition of power when bringing the driven shaft up to speed when changing gears as it slows down when shifting, and also helping it to bring up the speed without jerks from resting. So, indirectly it also protects the actual clutch from slipping. I am sure Kawboy will have more to say about it.

McBoney. Actually this is the bottom half. I just placed the gears on the bottom because it's easier to do on a table. But splitting cases would require doing it the other way, and as far as I know it wouldn't be much different. The thing is the crank shaft is bolted in the journals from the bottom. The top and bottom journals are cut directly in the crank cases, unlike the camshaft journals with top caps easy to remove.

I'd just remove the nut on the clutch and inspect the plates. The basked, with the bearing and gear pressed in, can stay. They just sit in the engine case like the others.
One word of caution, there is the clutch activation rod and a ball inside that long driven shaft - they can easily come out and get damaged or the ball lost.

I haven't gotten to the gear changing mechanism and haven't read the actual procedure, so can't comment at the moment about it except an observation. The gear changing drum etc. sit inside the bottom half of the case, below the gears, and those forks just stick out. After you flip the engine and remove the lower case, which would be on top now, it seems to me that the gear changing mechanism would just be removed together with the case, leaving all the rest siting in the other case. Once the bottom half will be off, it would be easy to have good access to the gear changing assembly and inspect it. That's my thought. There seems to be nothing really falling out, but as I said, I haven't dug into the manual deep enough to say nothing more than speculation.

Looking good! You can also keep the starter clutch in place as far as I know, and the flywheel on the other side. There is no need to remove the studs at all.
I'd check with the manual what has to be done on the upper half - in terms of any bolts that need to be removed. Then, place it upside down and proceed with removing all the bolts in the sequence per manual.

Yes, I was surprised how clean my crank case is inside! Normally, with time all gets a heavy yellow tint from the oil. Mine is pure silver, as if it was just made. You will see the other parts as well - the cylinder block is the best. The coating on the outside is like new!

This is what you should see when disassembling or assembling the engine, after pulling off or installing the bottom half of the case.
Of course, the chains would be over the gears and the crank shaft present. Once like this, it's very easy to remove and place back the shafts. They just sit there on top of the journals and would fall out if the case was tipped. What will hold them in place is the bottom case, and all the main bolts are done from the bottom.