TOPIC:

Thank you all for response. I think I was a bit vague instead of painting the whole picture and went straight to the point.
And the picture was a bit bigger indeed.

Biltonjim, I've researched the subject but didn't find scotch's conversion info (thank you!). I just remember him making a list of 'must things to do', and one of the first was to scrap the supplied automatic tensioner, as it is a failure waiting to happen. The ZX11 tensioner - I found out about it after I've already bought the manual one I have. Why not to use it! It wasn't cheap! So, after my searches and reading done, I still had a question particular to my own circumstance.
Today I see scotch's new mod - great! Yet another new chip added to the learning curve. Am I going to do it - but not right now. I am trying to make the one I have working.

I've tried a few approaches but without previous hands on experience, I just have no idea about that 'sweet spot'. What might seem like an obvious one to one person, might not to another, especially one with no experience. Even Formula 1 drivers practice moves a lot, and some win and some loose.

I didn't follow the resetting and trying the original tensioner because I have no experience with it and couldn't really have a piece of mind reading what I see as a result of this experiment. It's an old piece which has a reputation for failure. I have no idea where mine is and what it delivers, I don't know it's history except that of sitting abandoned for 30 years in some shit environment. It's a crucial and a sensitive little gadget. What result would I get might not be equal to a properly working one. Therefore I left it alone searching for a solid measurable answer.

So.. where are we now.. Kawboy, I actually measured how far there is to the chain with a wooden stick, how far there is to see the chain move when poked. I screwed the tensioner that far. Would that be THE 'sweet spot'? Seemed loose. When tightening the tensioner further I can move it inwards quite a way. We are talking millimeters of course. Thus it feels like I am sort of shooting ducks in a dark.

I know it's not easy to pin point the absolute correct answer because all sprockets and chains are warned out to a different degree in all different bikes. What I am used to is measuring how much the chain or belt travels when pulled or depressed, and I was hoping there would be this kind of measurement applicable here as well. Maybe there is, but I haven't found yet such info.

I will be playing with it more. The pistons stay at the top dead center for a bit longer!

A question still lingering in my head is - is this tensioner to simply limit the straight line of chain from moving away from gears when spinning (preventing the discussed fatal jumping the teeth), or also applying extra tension ? Based from what I read from you guys, it is the first (based on advise of not going beyond the light contact and even backing off a tad).

Is this what you meant scotch?

NEVER tighten the CCT with a wrench on the Bolt-Head !!!! My personal experience has always been to turn the BOLT in by hand !! Using a wrench on this bolt will most likely over-tighten the adjustment !

Sorry guys for what might seem like a broken record, but I am still processing

It is definitely a benefit if the CCT bolt and body have a "relaxed" fit - turns easily with fingers. I never did like "their" idea of having A "HEX-head" on the bolt end. Someone somewhere (if it hasn't already happened), is going to wrench that sucker in and .............That's how things get broken !

I did! Wit a wrench because it's hex and being tight really difficult to get that 'feeling'. So I was looking for mathematical reference point. I will experiment and find the right point. Would be very helpful to confirm my last conclusion - re: limiting movement rather than applying tension. I was going by the name, which in such case should be rather a limiter. That would certainly help knowing which goose I am chasing after. A limiter of chain movement under load. I hope I got it right this time.

And only because my mind is on Cuban Rum, Helicopters and bikinis.....not necessarily in that order.....and because I can't focus on work..... I found this nice knurled piece.
Kept my mind busy for 20 minutes and as I indicated earlier - no particular reason - just did it. So the only wrenching you need to do is to tighten the locking-nut !

Stan wrote So.. where are we now.. Kawboy, I actually measured how far there is to the chain with a wooden stick, how far there is to see the chain move when poked. I screwed the tensioner that far. Would that be THE 'sweet spot'? Seemed loose. When tightening the tensioner further I can move it inwards quite a way. We are talking millimeters of course. Thus it feels like I am sort of shooting ducks in a dark.

I know it's not easy to pin point the absolute correct answer because all sprockets and chains are warned out to a different degree in all different bikes. What I am used to is measuring how much the chain or belt travels when pulled or depressed, and I was hoping there would be this kind of measurement applicable here as well. Maybe there is, but I haven't found yet such info.

I really don't like that Kawasaki calls it a "tensioner" although the stock tensioner does apply a certain amount of tension to the chain. It has to be able to do this in order to self adjust. My preference is to just take up the slack in the chain.Tensioners are always on the back side of the driveline solely to take up the slack. I prefer the manual tensioner because I can adjust it to take up the slack and not add any tension to the chain. The less tension at the point on the chain where the tensioner is, the less force is applied to the nylon gear and that's a good thing. As I stated in one of the previous posts, 2-3mm of up and down slack between the 2 camshafts would be what I consider rightious.

Doing it now and report soon when done