TOPIC:

Now a couple questions.

I've read a thread about this on the forum, but I am still not up to a 100% about what to do.

Next I am installing the cams. Then I need to apply tension with these tensioners before I can fully spin the crankshaft. The bottom is manual tensioner, as suggested, top is standard Kawasaki.

I need some tips and reassurance if my thinking is right.

1 - do I just screw the timing chain tensioner AS IS? The manual says nothing about it except 'just attach and bolt it'. Is this correct? WHat's that bolt on the side of it?
2 - then the manual says 'connect the battery ground lead'. I forgot any specifics about this step. Do they talk about the thick cable elsewhere? I don't remember anything attached to this tensioner...
3 - the manual tensioner..... screw it in until the chain is stiff, than back off 1/4 of a turn? What's next after I get the engine running?
4 - is the ZRX11 (I think that's what it is) tensioner a better choice for improved over the standard KZ13 automatic tensioner? Does it provide then auto adjustment and less maintenance? I understand that it is recommended to shorten the spring by 10 mm.

5 - any source for this cracked hose? Any automotive fitting replacement for all the curved vacuum hoses?

I noticed I got 63 'thank you's'. That's my year! Anything more will make me go younger!!! hahaha For a while at least

PS. The tensioners in the photo are just a mock up - NO tension applied.

Camshafts installed. Please note that this is a 1982 A4 model.



17 counts between the points on the exhaust and intake markings.





So, I figured some things out and tightened these tensioners.

QUESTION:

From experience, how much play when pressing on the cam chain is 'healthy' by feeling? Right now about 1 mm. I can't find that suggested point where you turn the manual tensioner back 1/4 of a turn for that 'sweet' point. Just need a safe spot before starting in the future the bike for the first time. Then all the fiddling can begin.
So, what is the safe starting point?

Installed the swing-arm bearings and seals. Then the the o-ring on the drive shaft. When assembling, I sanded the area around the hole where the shafts go a bit with sand paper to flatten it after powder coating. Then I coated the shafts with a very thin layer of anti-seize copper based compound. Pressing them in was easy and I bet it will be easier to remove them after the compound treatment.
The 3 on each side bolts for the shaft stoppers where tightened to 18 ft.-lbs. Then the right side adjusting screw just enough to have about 2 mm gap between the swing-arm and the frame. Then the left side screw tighten to 11 ft.-lbs. Both lock nuts tighten to 58 ft-lbs.

Next inserted the drive shaft coupling. First goes the coupling inserted from the side where the gear teeth are closer to the edge (a bit of pressing to pass the o-ring). Then the spacer (we talked about it) inserted through the coupling sideways thanks to its profile (two straight sides). Last thing - the circlip, and more grease