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steel box

  • Kawboy
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Re: steel box

10 months 5 days ago - 10 months 5 days ago
#33750
There is no polarity on wasted spark coils since the primary coil and secondary coil are independent of each other, so you're good.
Glad to hear you're on the right track. Now the fun begins tracing and fixing the elusive electrical resistance issues. 
Last edit: 10 months 5 days ago by Kawboy.

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  • scotch
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Re: steel box

10 months 4 days ago - 10 months 4 days ago
#33755
moved to correct thread
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
Last edit: 10 months 4 days ago by scotch.

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  • hoganter
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Re: steel box

4 days 21 hours ago
#34617
Ok I am back in the electricals.
Bike runs ok then poorly.
When running poorly we observed the battery voltage only reads 12.88V at 4000rpm.
Everything else tested is testing ok.
Could this be "underpowering" the coils leading to weak spark?, and if so what do I have to learn now.

thanks

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Re: steel box

4 days 14 hours ago - 2 days 17 hours ago
#34618
I'll assume you are measuring the 12.88 volts at the battery and if so, that would be ok. The ignition ballast resistor drops the system voltage down to around 8-9 volts to supply to the coils, so that being said, you should check the supply voltage to the coils. With the key on and the engine stop switch in the run position, check the voltage at the pink wire on each coil to ground. It should be around 8 volts , give or take. If not  start checking back from there. The feed wire at the ballast should read system voltage (battery voltage if the bike is not running). If not start tracing back until you find the resistance.

To check the supply voltage for the ignition circuit, you need to

remove the 3 pink feed wires at the ignition coils to open the circuit,
have the ignition switch "on",
the main switch "on"
and the engine stop switch "on".


Following the wiring diagram, page 278 service manual
power for the coils starts at the battery white wire/red stripe and feeds the 30A fuse,
30A fuse then feeds the white wire with black stripe
 white wire / black stripe powers the main switch
Main switch in the "on " position connects the white/black with the white wire.
White wire powers the ignition switch
Ignition switch in the "on" position powers the brown wire.
The brown wire feeds the engine stop switch
Engine stop switch in the "on" position feeds the yellow wire/red stripe
Yellow wire /red stripe feeds the ballast resistor.
Up to this point you should see system voltage (battery voltage if the engine is not running)
The ballast resistor divides the system voltage in to 3 circuits and drops the voltage from system voltage down to around 8 volts on each leg and feeds the 3 pink wires.
Each of the 3 pink wires feed a positive terminal on each ignition coil.

Now, all that being said, 2 things to note here-

1.) Failing ignition coils tend to run ok for around 30 minutes then short out. The heating up of the coils tends to do this, not always but sometimes. definitely noticed when cracks are found in the coil housing from overheating. Check the resistance of each of the coils on the primary side ( 1.2 - 1.9 Ω ) and secondary side ( 12 - 18 k Ω) when the coils are hot (running shitty) page 241 service manual

2.) Pulser coils that trigger the ignition igniter have been known to give erratic pulses after 30 or so minutes, also due to heating up. Check the resistance of the pulser coils when hot (running shitty)  (360 - 540 Ω) page 242 service manual.

That's all I have for now. Let us know how you're making out.

KB
Last edit: 2 days 17 hours ago by Kawboy.
The following user(s) said Thank You: stocktoy

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  • hoganter
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Re: steel box

1 day 21 hours ago
#34620
Thanks KB
I don't have any voltage at the coils from the black green and blues wires from the ignitor.
Have got battery voltage into the igniter on a red wire.
Can't see a ballast resistor?

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Re: steel box

1 day 18 hours ago - 1 day 18 hours ago
#34621
Thanks KB
I don't have any voltage at the coils from the black green and blues wires from the ignitor.
And you shouldn't have any. The black, green and blue wires are coming off of the negative coil terminals and going to the transistors in the ignitor. The transistors open and close completing the circuit to ground  to make the spark.


Have got battery voltage into the igniter on a red wire.
the red wire feeding the ignitor is to power up the control side of the transistors. Nothing to do with making the spark itself.

Can't see a ballast resistor?
It sits under the gas tank on the left side of the frame snuggled in beside the 1-6 ignition coil. Qhite ceramic block with 1 terminal at one end and 3 terminals at the other end.

Did you do the other checks as I previously posted??


 
Last edit: 1 day 18 hours ago by Kawboy.

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