THE MOMENT OF TRUE.

kawaBCN wrote:

Well, after much meditation I have decided not to go for gluing the magnets with glue.

 I have been looking for more than a week for a magnet rotor with the same reference and in good condition, discovering the greed that show the hoarders of Z1300 parts in Europe with their stratospheric prices for a simple piece of a junked bike.

 In the end, thanks to Ebay, I found one in Australia at a fair price including air freight.

 In a couple of weeks I should receive it.

 

Well done. Proper too. Sometimes, I'd like to play with stuff like this. On the bench. Glue magnet piece back on, put on a variable DC rpm controlled motor, observe waveform output on o-scope from each of the 3 AC leads, then look at resultant DC rectifier output signal. 

Today I finally got the rotor from Australia, it took only a couple of weeks, blessed globalization.

 

It looks much better than the old one, and not just because of the broken magnet.

 
 
 The reference numbers match except for one letter, on the broken rotor it ends in 9F and on the Australian rotor it ends in 9C.  
 

Should I be worried about this difference?

Is the taper the same on the new one?  the outer aperture looks smaller on the replacement.

I'll suggest that the reference number refers to a batch number. Quite often parts that come out of a foundry get assigned a batch number so that components that fail can be traced if necessary to the batch so that if the failure  is related to a foundry problem, other components in the same batch can be pulled from service.
Usually foundry numbers will indicate the year  and the batch number. In this case "9" would be the year "1979" or possibly "1989" and the batch would be "C" or "F".

I would say if the rotor fits, you're good to go.