In the beginning, I didn't say the clutch interlock was bypassed because it WASN'T. FYI, I have an Associates in Electronics, and was the Electronics Technician in the Nike Sport Research Lab for nine years, until I moved over to supporting I.T. in the Footwear Development department.
Here's the sequence of events:
1) Replaced the American-style throttle/switch cluster with a used factory European assembly in order to get the top-exit throttle cable arrangement because I had previously added European-style low bars and the cable guide tubes were hitting the fuel tank. I replaced the starter switch in the Euro assembly with the one from the American assembly because it was in better shape. Kill switch was in good shape, so I left it alone. I also left the headlight on/off switch in place, but put heat shrink tubing over the terminals that were no longer used when I switched the others over from the 6-pin Euro connector to the 4-pin American connector. The two terminals were isolated from each other by the heat shrink tubing.
2) Noted that the bike started and ran normally when the neutral light was on and the clutch was pulled in. Didn't try starting with the clutch lever out or the transmission neutral indicator off because that's not how you start a bike.
3) Noted that the bike would pull away from a stop normally as long as I kept the clutch lever less than fully released. When I fully released the clutch lever, the engine died instantly as soon as the clutch interlock switch opened.
4) Bypassed the clutch interlock by disconnecting the two leads from the wiring harness, adding a jumper wire between the two male connectors and further adding a tie-wrap to bind the two male connectors tightly together. The starter would now presumably engage even with the clutch lever released, but that's not how you start a bike.
5) Never tried starting the bike on the center stand because the area laughably referred to as my "work area" is a gravel strip on the street side of the 8" tall (no kidding) "sidewalk" separating my front yard from the street, and the surface is too uneven to allow the center stand to be deployed without a crane of some kind. Bike starts (as usual) with the side stand either down or up, and I see no sign of a side-stand interlock switch. Didn't spend much time verifying that the bike would start with the sidestand down, because that's not how you start a bike, but did try it a couple of times (I think). Most times, raised the side stand before trying to crank the engine in neutral, because that IS how you start a bike.
6) The bike really is in neutral when the indicator so indicates. When the bike is fully warmed up, I can ease away by feathering the clutch, but as soon as the clutch lever is released fully, the engine dies instantly. (Of course, this was before I bypassed the clutch interlock that prevents the engine from even cranking without the lever pulled in).
7) When the clutch interlock was still functional, and after, the engine shutoff and the starter button worked as they normally did before I swapped in the new cluster.
So I have to go back to post 29815 where I stated-
"I had another look at the wiring diagram and figured out what probably happened. When you removed the wires from the 6 pin connector and installed the 4 wires you needed in to the 4 pin connector, you crossed the blue wire with red stripe and the yellow wire with the red stripe. In this scenario, the only time the power to the coils and many other circuits would be only when the clutch lever was pulled in."
So, with these 2 wires crossed, the only time power to the coils and other circuits is when the starter interlock switch is closed. (clutch pulled in). As soon as you release the clutch fully, the interlock switch is open and all power to those circuits is lost which is exactly as you describe.
My '82 (A4) doesn't seem to have a side stand interlock, but I was looking in the area around the hinge. Is it actually located where the foot of the stand contacts the frame when the stand is folded up? I haven't looked at the Service Manual yet.
Well, I'm sitting at the bike now, looking at the connector. Looking at the face of the 4-pin connector (from the handlebar switches), with the latch downwards, here's what I see. In each case, these are the colors that connect to the back side of the plug.
Upper Left: Black Upper Right: Blue/Red Stripe
Lower Left: Yellow/Red Stripe Lower Right: Brown
I set the connector up this way so as to match the wires that connect to the plug that comes out of the wiring harness. To swap the wires with the red stripes would leave them connected to the opposite combination on the harness side.