TOPIC:

I've had to replace the water-pump seal numerous times over the course of 34 years and again as recently as last winter. (you have to have something to do while you wait for the snow to melt!)

1) I got fed-up with paying $55.00 to $70.00 for a "KZ1300" seal so I did some exploring. Found a suitable replacement seal at an electric-motor repair shop. Took my old "1300' water-pump seal to them and with a couple of trips back and forth to the inventory shelves found a seal that is used in domestic water-pumps and hot-tubs. (Let the jokes begin !) The interesting part is that this replacement seal leaked immediately (a drip every other second and slowed when hot). O ooh, the discouragement and foul language! HOWEVER - after a few hundred miles the rotor/stater surfaces of the seal (presumably) mated and it's been dry ever since (all summer). This has been my experience with other seals as well despite careful handling. * Do NOT touch the ceramic surfaces!
2) The small water-pump shaft "o"-ring is CRITICAL. If you've got the pump apart, replace the "o"-ring !!!! THIS PART IS IMPORTANT: ANY scratches in the impeller-bore will create a leak regardless of a new seal. These fine scratches will occur when removing a "difficult" impeller especially if twisting back and forth. The groove edges in the shaft for the cir-clip are the prime culprit as would be any corrosion. I used a 1/2" plastic brush type gun-cleaner and some metal polish spun with a cordless-drill to "hone" the impeller bore. A "light" emery touch-up on the shaft should deal with any issues with the groove/corrosion.
3) In the past I have used pliers on the impeller-fins to get the impeller off the shaft. If this is your preferred method then use a piece of cloth to protect the fins from the pliers-jaws to avoid damaging them. Use two pairs of pliers if possible for a more "even" pull. This time I removed the impeller with a home-made 2-jaw puller based on a typical gear-puller principle and the impeller came off very easily. The water-pump shaft has a "center" which facilitates a puller being used.
4) It was also time to replace the upper and lower rad. hoses as they were swollen. A local automotive supplier had a suitably sized hose with the appropriate bend (for the upper). "Goodyear" hose #61028. Simply cut the 2 required pieces to the appropriate length. I wrap my lower hose to protect it from the extreme heat from the header. I first wrap some 6oz.(heavier) fiber-glass cloth around the hose (2X for insulation) and then cover the cloth with 2 layers of 2" self-stick aluminum (metal) duct-work tape which reflects the heat. NOTE: NOT "Duck-tape".

Hope this is of some help and encouragement to others.

Scotch, what a great write up.

You won't hear me laughing about sourcing an off the shelf, suitable substitute.

There are many parts on our bikes that are off the shelf, sourced by Kawasaki. They just happen to buy in enough quantity, they can have their logo and part numbers applied accordingly.

If I recall correctly, Kaw even has a lapping procedure to use valve lapping compound to lap the ceramic seal, your method just did it over time with the new mechanical seal in service.

I recall some shops cursing this seal on the number of times they had to go back into the area and either re-lap the seal or replace it. They don't always seal right away.

Bill this might be a good one to preserve for future reff.

Todd.

I have yet to have issues with mine .
But i noticed zed parts listed a stainless shaft i had never seen before.