TOPIC:

srech77 wrote:

Kawboy wrote: .

The only thing I have to say is that I appreciate the advice! I'm not an expert - so it helps me for sure ...

Do I need to have the cam cover off to put the new tensioner on? Or do I take the old one out after the bike is warm, then put the new one in and use the method you stated?

I would be pulling the cover. Let's face it, when you pull the tensioner, it is possible for the chain to fall off of the secondary shafft cam chain drive gear. If that happens, you'll need to retime the cams. Also bear in mind that after installing and initial tensioning of the chain, you'll want to verify the timing of the shafts before hitting the starter button.

Tonto wrote: srech77, sorry for late response but you have found yourself a lovely example . Couple up for sale here in the UK at the moment that are no better than your lovely KZ13, (and probably not as nice in the flesh) with an asking prices of $14,000 and $13,000 USD - you have the bargain of the century methinks.

I have had a 79 A1 for a few years, always filled her with top quality motorcycle oil 10 / 40 and (as Scotch said) kept a close eye on oil levels as I decided not to do the "deep sump" mod. I did do the Zx11 CCT change with no drama and bought a replacement genuine OEM cam idler gear (from a forum member): thought about a Liska unit but I do not do big miles on mine thought the original nylon gear should last me another 10 years +.

Only other thing I would mention is that I have had issues (and so have some other owners) with Start button contact in the RH control, and repeated issues with my starter clutch - hopefully now sorted
.
Enjoy riding and owning your 13 - I know I would.
Cheers Tim .

Hi Tonto - thanks for the proper welcoming! Thank you for that input ... can you elaborate just a touch more on the starter control and starter issue you were having? At the moment the starter button and starter seem to be working fine, but that can always change in a hurry.

Yesterday something odd happened - of course when I went to test ride the bike, everything started fine, rode fine ... I took it home, then was able to ride it and start is as usual, then last night I went for q quick ride, came home and changed the oil, filter, and final drive fluid ... then went to start the bike (lights came on like normal) then it just made an "attempt" to turn the motor, but was clear that it had died. Like a true idiot, I really wanted to go out, so I roll started the bike (which is probably a big no-no), and it started, so I took off .... then about a block away it started lugging and I tried to rev it to keep it going, then it surely died on me, and won't start.

I have put the bike on a battery tender charger overnight ... and this morning I came out and disconnected it, and the bike fires right up! I didn't realize the starter turned that quickly! It must have definitely been turning slow when I test rode it, because it really whizzes up fast! So can someone confirm that this is probably a bad battery? Or maybe it was undercharged? Idk .. I just don't want to get into a bunch of electrical problems this early, but that's just the way it goes I guess :/

Oh! One last thing ... I noticed a subtle "bubbling" sound coming from the battery this morning while it was in "storage" mode on the tender ... can someone tell me if that is normal. I guess I've never experienced that before... makes me worry a bit. Thanks!

Kawboy wrote:

srech77 wrote:

Kawboy wrote: .

The only thing I have to say is that I appreciate the advice! I'm not an expert - so it helps me for sure ...

Do I need to have the cam cover off to put the new tensioner on? Or do I take the old one out after the bike is warm, then put the new one in and use the method you stated?

I would be pulling the cover. Let's face it, when you pull the tensioner, it is possible for the chain to fall off of the secondary shafft cam chain drive gear. If that happens, you'll need to retime the cams. Also bear in mind that after installing and initial tensioning of the chain, you'll want to verify the timing of the shafts before hitting the starter button.

Thanks Kawboy - and to confirm, the timing cover on this bike is on the right hand side (cover forward of the clutch cover)? I will need to look up in a service manual the proper procedure for cam position, timing, etc... I'm not too skilled with that.

biltonjim wrote: Scotch
You mention that your chosen method of dealing with the cam chain tensioner problem was to fit a set screw into the end of the tensioner housing. As you say, there is not much thickness of metal there. In my case, I intend doing what Lare did to his - fit a longer set screw with locking. nut in place of the existing hex head side mounted push rod retaining screw. This prevents any chance of the push rod making unwanted movements, whilst retaining the correct tensioner spring. It be comes - in effect - a manual tensioner, but without the possibility of over or under tightening the chain. Of course, you know all this, but it might be another option for our new owner to consider.

Ahh! I would be interested to know more about this ... sound fairly simple. I have looked at where the hex head screw is at in the center of the tensioner. So that one comes out, then what length of bolt goes in its place? Or do you just get a longer bolt of the same pitch and turn it by hand until it seats, then use a lock nut on it?

The photo should help qualify the mod to the OEM tensioner. What can't be seen is the "Internal" nut that's immediately opposite the exterior lock-nut. The internal nut was "rounded" to fit snuggly in the very end of the bore in the tail-piece of the adjuster. There's more, but I'm not going to complicate this further, at this point. Hope this helps somewhat.

as a ex mechanic i grew up in a time when you frequently changed oil for the simple reason that the engineering quality/materials/design and oil quality was not as it has become today.
over the years i have watched all the manufactures get into a war over whose engine can go the longest without servicing, reasoning they have the cheapest running costs etc etc.
now in a perfect world perfect things happen, how ever in difference to the norm i believe we live in a rather imperfect world, and have seen a reasonable amount of modern engines still go into production with engineering problems, and have seen problems eventuate with engines that could have been found had shorter oil intervals been done. mineral oils effective use deminishes quicker than synthetic , and a lower quality oil will break down quicker than a high quality oil (mineral or Synthetic) thats not always a price related issue
i religiously change oil every 5000ks always have and will even on modern stuff.
1 the more often you change the oil the quicker you will pick up any discharges into it, metalic primarily,but also sometimes silicon from the over zelot engine re builder and other engine debri( i once changed a bikes oil and found what turned out to be clutch fragments) but also the colour/smell can give indication if the crank is burning the oil.
any debri in a engines oil the longer it is in their the more chance it has of causing a problem significant or otherwise(and that does not matter how expensive the oil was!!)
2 certainly it is less harmful to change regular than leave for longer periods, I believe fully synthetic oils are the best lubricant on the market (for modern engines), as others have stated the older engines don't necessarily get that advantage, often it can be a disadvantage causing premature wear.
3 it has often been the case that particular oils suite certain engines more than others,so finding a oil specific to your engine should always be the issue, not just what is the best oil on the market. sometimes this means stepping away from manufacturers recommendations. i have a 2007 Honda oddssey Auto (not cvt) their is only one fluid that will work correctly with this model, all the others though are all classed as Auto Trans fluid will alter the timing of its gear change! even if your just topping up.
i found in the older forks i often moved away from spec for many reasons.
Cam chain tensioners, you could write about which one why and how to set for days, at the end of it, im not sure if i would recommend doing while engine s running with manual tensioner as i have seen to many engines come in that a guy was doing just that and came unstuck.pretty easy to do a finger adjustment as others have pointed out and start and listen, if its still in your mind a bit noisy (just turn off and repeat) really its not a huge laborious exercise. i have always set mine when engine is warm not full operating temp, simply its what i was taught and believe it strikes a good medium with cold and hot theories.
I definitely run with Kawboy in that to many people watch youtube and take it for gospel,watcher beware!! any person without having necessarily any credentials can put up whatever they want to, the difference with a site as this ?, what you have to take into consideration is the amount of people on a site like this coming to a similar conclusion from experience with the same item at hand.
as several have pointed out you make your own decision! but do the homework, as it can save you a lot of head aches and cost
anyways just wanted to get that out as sometimes i believe some of these points are over looked.
Dion