Do I need a fuel pump ?

I'd be interested in knowing your method of removed the Reed boxes.....as I'm sure perhaps, 1 or 2  others might as well.   

scotch wrote:

I'd be interested in knowing your method of removed the Reed boxes.....as I'm sure perhaps, 1 or 2  others might as well.   

 

It was actually relatively easy. I fitted a carbide tipped wobble type dado cutter to a 10" radial arm saw. The wobble was set to it's narrowest, 3/16".  I adjusted the cut height carefully and made the cuts on the push stroke only. The first results were rough but true enough so that an hour's filing and some sanding made me happy. So far I've cut down two other cam covers this way as well.
On this one I left enough of the reed boxes to remind folks of them.
 
Bill

 

Getting back on topic......
Your new pressure regulator will flow 333 liters per hour so that's more than ample for your selected pump 
Your new fuel pump will flow 155 liters per hour ( capable of feeding 450 HP) which is 3 times your needs and that's fine realizing that your pumping far more fuel than you need and the pump will be using more power than a pump flowing 50 liters per hour which would support 150 hp.
The only unknown that needs to be confirmed is the flow of the return line from the regulator back to the tank. If it's a 1/4" line then it should flow 133 liter per hour at 0 pressure to 266 at relatively 0 pressure ( a lot depends on head pressure)

All that being said, I would ditch the resistor and run the pump at full system voltage. I don't like seeing electric motors running at half voltage since they tend to run much hotter plus,  the resistor itself is eating up current for no reason. The charging system is taxed enough with all the accessories hence the dual alternators.

Kawboy post=34494 userid=599Getting back on topic......

All that being said, I would ditch the resistor and run the pump at full system voltage. I don't like seeing electric motors running at half voltage since they tend to run much hotter plus,  the resistor itself is eating up current for no reason. The charging system is taxed enough with all the accessories hence the dual alternators.

Hi Kawboy,
I've struggled finding a motorcycle sized fuel pump. Just as I was getting this Walbro sorted, to the extent that it is, the Moto Guzzi fuel pump arrived.  It's not that I'm satisfied with the resistor hack it's just that it's success has exposed the next deficiency. My adjustable pressure regulator won't adjust.
The problem (unverified but suspected) with the excessively powered pump is that it's either causing cavitation at the petcock or the vented pressure has the fuel so frothed up that bubbles are actually being drawn into the system. I chose to limit the electrical power but I could have installed a throttling valve in the line from the pump to the manifold.
What would you think of that option?
Thanks
Bill
 

Was there ever a tacho drive on that valve cover?  Is it electronic on the DFIs

KZQ wrote:

 

I could have installed a throttling valve in the line from the pump to the manifold.
What would you think of that option?


 

Not an option Bill. The pump is a positive displacement pump and snubbing it would cause the pump to stall out and burn out because of that.

Did you check the fuel filter screen on the petcock and insure that it is clear? If it is partially blocked, then that would explain why the pump is sucking air from the petcock. The pump would be struggling to pull fuel from the tank which would cause a vacuum in the petcock. Realize that the new pump wants to pull 3 times the amount of fuel from the tank. One way or another, the pump will work its butt off trying to do its job.

When the time comes, I'll be looking for an in tank pump from either a FJR1300 or a GSX1300 (probably the GSX1300) and retro fitting it to the tank. Size wise, either will fulfill the need . I have to be careful with the electrical draw since I have a 1980 B2 with a single alternator. Fuel injection will really start loading up the required electrical load and I have to be mindful of that.

This is why I keep hounding on " Fit, Form and Function" Once you start modifying things, you have to realize that the mod will have an effect on more than just its own system. All you wanted to do was replace a bad pump and now you're dealing with a fuel pressure / flow problem at the inlet to the pump and the outlet from the pump. Then there's the unknown possible problem on the electrical side. Wiring to the pump adequate for the increased load? Fuse that supplies the load adequate for the new load? Fortunately, the only thing the DFI interfaces with the pump is turning the power on or off.

I gained a wealth of experience  jumping from being an auto mechanic to a millwright in a nuclear power plant. I thought I was a shit hot mechanic until I got exposed to how things are done in the nuclear industry. I started as a millwright and rose through the ranks to Section Manager over Operations, Maintenance , Engineering and Project Manager. At one point I had 17 engineers under my command, working on a new build project. All the engineering aspects for that new build was mind boggling.  Engineering Change Controls on existing equipment to accommodate the new equipment being tied in, Fit Form and Function of the new equipment to ensure what was being assembled would do the job and not impact existing systems. It was a lot to work through and it took an army to do it. I spent 8 hours a day at meetings for 3 years just to come up with a plan to build  a warehouse to store radioactive spent fuel. No heating system, no plumbing, just an empty warehouse that interconnected with 17 existing systems.