I’ll take a crack at this question purely from a theoretical point of view.

Under what circumstances do combustion engines require oil pressure?
1. Almost all engines over 10 HP require oil pressure at the connecting rod journals to supply oil under pressure to the connecting rods so that the relief notch on the side of the connecting rod or a drilled orifice on the top side of the connecting rod big end, gets exposed to the drilled oil journal on the crankshaft connecting rod journal to(for lack of a better word), squirt oil on to the cylinder walls while the piston is up near top dead center to lubricate the cylinder walls prior to the piston exerting sideward pressure on the cylinder wall.
2. Another need for oil pressure would be in an engine with hydraulic lifters to fill the lifters with oil in a limited amount of time when the lifter is not under pressure from the valve springs.
3. Some high-performance engines with turbochargers or superchargers have oil cooling to the bottom of the pistons supplied by a pressurized oil gallery with spray nozzles
4. Some engines also have camshaft chain tensioners which have a minimum tensioning spring with an oil pressurized piston backing up the tension rod to force the tensioner out against the cam chain roller keeping the chain tight. The Zn1300’s have an oil supply line to the back of the cam chain tensioner but I’m not sure if in this case it’s to supply “pressure” to the tension rod or if it’s to supply oil flow for some other reason. My Porsche928 has 3 tensioners (2 on the cam chains and one on the timing belt tensioner) that require oil pressure to do their jobs.
5. Last but probably not least, oil pressure is required to push oil through the oil filter media. If it weren’t for oil pressure, the surface area of the filtration media would be too great to filter the oil without pressure unless a centrifuge is used. The older 1970’s 4 stroke Hondas come to mind since they used oil centrifuges on the end of the crankshaft. (prior to the 750cc Hondas which had cartridge filtration)


all engines require oil flow for several reasons. Most engines run plain bearings or roller bearings where needed which do not require any oil pressure. They require oil flow to –

1. Provide in the case of the plain bearings, oil to the bearing journal and shaft running in the journal just prior to the loaded area of the shaft and journal so that an oil wedge can be developed to cushion the loaded area between the two.
2. Provide a flow of oil to cool the moving parts and remove the heat to areas of the engine which dissipate the heat like the crankcase, cylinder head and valve cover, or to an oil cooler if available.
3. To remove unwanted debris for the engine internals and transport to the oil filtration system for removal.
4. Provide oil to coat parts of the engine in a rust inhibiting barrier when the engine is not operating.
5. In the case of roller bearings, lubricate the surfaces of the outer race, inner race and rollers and remove heat from the bearing.

Why do most engines monitor oil pressure and not oil flow?

Oil pressure is developed when the flow of the oil from the oil pump and after the oil filtration system overcomes the flow through all the clearances in the engine.
An oil pressure monitoring system is simpler than an oil flow monitoring system.

Why would you want to monitor the oil level in the crankcase if oil pressure and oil flow are more important?

My educated opinion here would be that the assumption is that oil pumps seldom fail and if the oil filtration system gets plugged, the filter bypass valve would open up allowing oil to still flow. So if we can pretty much guarantee that we have oil pressure and oil flow just by design then the only other problem that comes in to play with the oil system would be not enough oil to remove excess heat from parts causing an engine seizure. I believe that in their ultimate wisdom Kawasaki decided that lack of oil quantity was even more critical to monitor than a possible failure of the oil supply system. By removing the oil pressure switch, they simplified the oil monitoring system from identifying 2 possible failures (low oil pressure or low oil level) to 1 single failure low oil level. It’s also my opinion that this was a move backwards. Monitoring oil pressure while driving will indicate a problem before it becomes a problem if you know how to interpret the information.

That’s all I got. Feel free to chime in.
KB

I also have that ticking sound at the top end LH side that goes away when warm... ?? sounds like a tappet sticking, but when I took the top off it seemed fine...

Paul (Mcboney) provided the part number in a previous post. Part # 12048-1113 This part is found on the following Kawasaki models
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1992 Concours - ZG1000-A7 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 ZRX1100 - ZR1100-C3 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D5 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1996 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D4 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 Concours - ZG1000-A16 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 ZRX1100 - ZR1100-C4 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 Concours - ZG1000-A18 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 ZRX1200R - ZR1200-A2 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 ZZR1200 - ZX1200-C1 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 ZZR1200 - ZX1200-C4 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 Concours - ZG1000-A19 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 Concours - ZG1000-A13 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 Concours - ZG1000-A20 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2006 Concours - ZG1000A6F Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 ZRX1200R - ZR1200-A5 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D8 Camshaft(s)/Tensione
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 Concours - ZG1000-A15 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1994 Concours - ZG1000-A9 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 ZRX1200R - ZR1200-A1 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 ZRX1200R - ZR1200-A3 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 ZZR1200 - ZX1200-C2 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1995 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D3 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1996 Concours (Canada Only) - ZG1000-A11 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D9 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 ZZR1200 - ZX1200-C3 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 ZRX1200R - ZR1200-A4 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 Concours - ZG1000-A14 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D7 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D6 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1995 Concours - ZG1000-A10 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1994 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D2 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1993 Ninja ZX-11 - ZX1100-D1 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1993 Concours - ZG1000-A8 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 Concours - ZG1000-A12 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner
Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 Concours - ZG1000-A17 Camshaft(s)/Tensioner

Partzilla.com is a wonderful database for finding out where a part number is used and they have databases for all 4 Japanese brands (Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki) If you are headed off to a breaker for a specific part and you know what models used that part, it's easier to find what you need. You'll need a login ID for Partzilla and it doesn't cost anything. I highly reccommend it. www.partzilla.com

Sorry to hear this has happened to you. We have to thank you for reporting that the tensioner showed no signs of wear and yet failed and you now have bent valves. Usually we find the extending pin with chatter marks on the side where the locking balls have worn in to the side of the pin. This information just confirms that even a good looking stock tensioner can't be trusted.
You have a few choices for updating the tensioner.
1) Replace it with a tensioner from a zx11. Pretty much a straight bolt on but there is some controversy about shortening the spring 10mm or not. There are recent posts regarding this info and you'll have to make your own decision here.
2) Buy and install a manual tensioner. Easily found on EBay. The only downside is you have to make the periodic adjustments. The upside is that everytime you make an adjustment, it tells you how well the cam chain and gears are holding up.
3) You can modify the stock tensioner by building up the casting in the back end of the tensioner and drilling and tapping for a 6 mm bolt and locknut. This allows the tensioner to do its thing as designed and requires you to periodically snug up the back up bolt to prevent the tensioner from backing off which is what your stock tensioner has done here. This modification is well documented here.

Take some time and read through this post. It may help with your decision.
Cam chain tensioner upgrade

Thanks for the input.
I set it right on the marks according to manual/Kawboy, checked it several times by rotating the crankshaft, and I felt confident it was OK.
However, I started the engine and it ran just a moment, then it stopped. I could not turn it, so I took of the cylinder head cover and checked the timing. BAD, it was now several teath out of timing. After resetting the timing, no compresion. Checking with the cylinder leakage tester, I could see several valves leaking, probaply bended.
So now I am dismantling the cylinder head again.
I am not sure what I have done wrong during the assembling, I think I have followed the manual. I reused the original chain tensioner, as there was no signs of wear.
But I can see from several threads here, that I need an up grade of the chain tensioner.
Any advice or opinions where I may have failed will be appreciated.
BR Bendt

hi all, Still trying to determine the correct year for the zx11 tensioner to be used in the 1300 local parts guy is being anal
If any one has the part # or year being used please share Thanks Greg

swapped out the cam chain tensioner today , third one i have done but i still get nervous every time i do it, was a bit alarmed when i could hear a slight ticking sound which appeared to be coming from the top end but after it warmed up the sound has all but gone and all appears well

I wish there was more conversation like this on the forum to fill in the pauses in cam chain tensioner posts! That’s a great tale, Kawboy. I think there’s a book in you, just waiting to be written. Whatever the subject it would surely be very entertaining!

No, the water pump chain tensioner is not problematic.

Hello All,
With all the advice given to replace the cam chain tensioner with a ZX-11 unit, does the same hold true for the water pump chain?
Thanks,
John

Good old Monty Python, classic British humour, glad you took the time to look it up and learn !

.............and remember chaps.................Always look on the bright side of life..................

Pete F
UK

I had to look up the origin of "Nudge, Nudge, wink, wink, say no more". I've heard it a few times over the years and wondered where it came from. So..... 1993 Monty Python skit . The line "Nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more" is followed in the skit with the line " a nod is as good as a wink to a blind bat"

That fact is documented for your viewing pleasure on Youtube.

so..... no need to say anymore.

Hey Paul,

Long time no speak................you finally seen sense haha...............I did too and have had two 1300's over the past 3 years, love em !!

What you say is correct, just remove the original tensioner and fit the ZX Tensioner body (without the spring in) with the shaft fully BACK into the body, then insert the spring and hollow retaining bolt so it pushes the shaft out as you tighten the hollow bolt.
The tension of the spring will do the rest of the job automatically once you start the motor.

Be aware though, the Z1300 armchair riders society will tell you this tensioner will ruin your engine and wear it out.............despite having absolutely no evidense or proof of this what so ever, "nudge nudge...wink wink, say nomore" !!

Take care mate and stay in touch, always here to help and if you've lost my email address just PM me on this site and I will send you it.

Pete F
UK

Hi Pete
can i ask about fitting the tensioner as i may be about to get another z13 [hopefully] on my last one i simply took the old one out and when i put the zzr11 tensioner in took the spring out while installing and once bolted in place reinstalled it seems to work fine that was about 4 years ago just want to make sure im not missing something

Its also worth having a read of the facts below which were only posted a couple of weeks ago.........................




On the subject of the ZX Tensioner, it is a very touchy and widely debated subject, but please let me make you aware of a few facts (not opinions or maybe's).

I have owned over ten 1300's in the last 40 years and maintained another two for a good friend and numerous others for other owners too.

Until around 12 years ago, every 1300 I bought had the original standard Tensioner fitted (as the ZX Tensioner Mod was not established before that)..........and the rubber guide wheel on at least 3 of them was vey badly worn or had disintegrated.........with the Standard Tensioner fitted. This was also the case with at least one other I worked on that also had the standard tensioner fitted. The bikes all had relatively low mileages.

I have fitted the ZX Tensioner to every 1300 I have bought over the last 12 years including the one I own now and the other two I maintain for my friend, and NONE of them have had any issues or show any signs of wear on any of the idler gears or rubber guide wheels.

So, this FEAR of the ZX Tensioner doing damage or creating premature wear is all speculation and opinion and to date...............not one owner I know or have heard of anywhere has provided any evidence or facts that the ZX Tensioner does any harm at all............but many have "Opinions" and many of these are "armchair" owners who either dont even own a 1300, or very rarely if ever use their own.

If you read many posts on here and many other 1300 Owner sites on this topic, people state their opinions that the "spring is too strong" or "it will wear your engine out" etc, etc, etc,.......................but show absolutely no proof of this on any 1300 fitted with the ZX Tensioner, and literally 100's or 1000's of owners have carried out and continue to carry out this modification, as will continue to do...............until conclusive evidence prooves otherwise.
This is also probably the reason why good people like Oz and Deb at Zed Parts and our friends at Z1300DE continue to supply the ZX Tensioner as a valid modification.

I will conclude by saying in my opinion, the other tensioner modification which involves modifying the standard tensioner with a back-up bolt, is a great idea and should overcome the initial problem of the badly designed tensioner and probably just as good a fix as the ZX Tensioner mod is................but dont be afraid of the ZX Tensioner until it is proven not to be a good solution, which as of today it has not been.

I will of course make all here aware of any issues or damage I am made aware of on any of the numerous 1300's I have fitted the ZX Tensioner or know of to over the last 12 years which have now covered good mileage over that period.

Pete F
UK

This is a cut and paste from post #23719 that Phil put up about 1 year 4 months ago.

"I personally have been swayed by new information regarding shortening the ZZR CCT spring & whether it increases tension force, this was posted by Ian on the international Z1300 Facebook page after he carried out tests:
"well WoW the standard cct spring is putting 650 grams of force on the chain at a length of 52 mm
the zzr spring is putting over 1030 grams of force at the same compression with 10mm cut off, that was taken at the end of its travel which is 52mm so if you cam chain isnt that slack then more force will be applied.
compressing the ZZR CCT by 10mm nearly doubled the force applied to 2000 grams.
the standard CCT only went up to 920 grams at 10mm compression.
Phil i would be interested in how much force you will get with a full length spring.
think ill stick with the standard CCT with modified with a back stop."

Obviously, the spring pressure across the board is almost double the spring pressure of the stock tensioner, so I have to ask, Is it possible to install the zx11 tensioner with the KZ1300 tensioner spring so you could maintain the same spring pressure as required by the KZ1300 set up and be able to have the locking mechanism of the zx11 tensioner? Wouldn't that be the best of both worlds?

Good day Gents, What year cam tensioner for the zx1100 is needed for the z1300 and what if any adjustment procedure is used for this swap,
i've read some posts and know that some are shortening the spring and some not. Any enlightening would help.

The only thing that's suppose to go "snap, crackle, pop" is Rice Crispies when you pour milk on it. Everything else- it's a problem. I wouldn't even turn the engine over on the starter until the cam timing and all things involved with the tensioner have been checked out. The nylon toothed tensioner sprocket may have split and a piece broke off. The rubber tensioner wheel may have lost a chunk. I doubt that a nylon guides have broke but never say never. After checking all of those things visually only then would I attempt to turn over the engine, first by wrench and if there's no mechanical blockage, attempt to do a compression check to see if a valve got bent.

Never ceases to amaze me, of all the possible problems associated with the KZ1300, the cam chain tensioner is #1 followed by Carb low speed circuit blockage as #2 followed by overheating stators because of shunt regulators as #3. If you own one of these bikes, you need to do the modifications to the tensioner and voltage regulator and pay some sort of attention to you fuel and manage that as you see fit. Then enjoy the ride.

Buddy asked be to come over and look at his 1300. He had the carbs off (to clean them) then when he put them back on and started the bike it ran for a bit then he heard a snap or ?? (going by his description). He says now it won't idle but seem to run fine off-idle and he thinks a tensioner shoe has broken. First thing I asked him is if the cam chain tensioner assembly was ever updated - he didn't think so. Would it be possible for the cam chain to skip a tooth and the motor still run? I'm not going to have time to pull the valve cover but wondering if it's advisable to do a compression test with possible cam time issues - after all, he has been running the motor.

Very important to modify or replace the tensioner. Expensive engine damage can result from failure of the original design.