Just follow the KZ1300 Service Manual starting on page 98. It's straight forward and no surprises, but follow the manual line by line. There are a couple of nuts inside the bottom of the lower case that could get missed (under the oil pick up tube as I remember). KawaBCN just did this job about a month ago and I remember that he started to reassemble and missed a step (didn't install the cam chain tensioner before installing the cylinder head) and had to backtrack. He hasn't fired it up and run it yet and he might have to replace the head gasket because of his mistake.
Just take your time. Maybe mark which step you're working on and complete it before moving the marker.

KB
Post Note- If you don't have a copy of the service manual, as a member you're entitled to view / download a copy from the Home page of this site

=12pxWeepage around tensioner. New gasket installed.=12pxComing out.
[img]https://candybuttorg.ipage.com/pix/motobikes/wrenching/KZ1300/2024-02-11 - Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket and Tensioner Movement/1.jpg[/img] =12pxIn stalled.
[img]https://candybuttorg.ipage.com/pix/motobikes/wrenching/KZ1300/2024-02-11 - Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket and Tensioner Movement/2.jpg[/img] =12pxOn Kz1300.com, some discussion around the side bolt and washer. =12pxFrom what I see, the bolt keeps the push rod captive into tensioner housing. It does not 'clamp' down
to keep tensioner 'in place'.  =12px

Kawboy wrote:

I still stand firm on the thought that this bolt or belt is not meant to lock the pin in an adjusted position and only there to keep all the pieces of the tensioner together during installation or removal. There's nothing in the maintenance schedule telling you to check/adjust this tensioner and I believe that the tensioner is meant to be only a tensioner to keep the timing / water pump drive chain slack taken up.


 

In that case I have no choice but to clean and put the washer back in its place.

The part that you guys are calling a bolt in the parts manual has the description "Belt, Tensioner adjust part #92001-1155" and at first I thought the spelling "belt" was a misspelled "bolt" but I now believe they really meant to call it a belt. I think it's a poor choice of a word to describe what its intent is.
The flat section on the tensioner pin could be called the waist of the pin and I suppose one could put a belt on the waist to stop the pin from falling out.

The washer on the "belt" is described as a "washer , oil pump banjo" as I suppose that the washer is also used on a banjo fitting somewhere else and instead of giving this washer a specific name, they just referenced it by part # and the name associated with that part #. Banjo fitting washers are usually copper and will crush somewhat to seal the fitting.

I still stand firm on the thought that this bolt or belt is not meant to lock the pin in an adjusted position and only there to keep all the pieces of the tensioner together during installation or removal. There's nothing in the maintenance schedule telling you to check/adjust this tensioner and I believe that the tensioner is meant to be only a tensioner to keep the timing / water pump drive chain slack taken up.

 

Kawboy wrote:

I am at a complete loss here. There is nothing in the Service Manual about any adjustment requirements of the timing chain tensioner. There are no specific instructions during the installation of the timing chain tensioner (Pg 61 in the manual) requiring any "adjustment" of the tensioner after installation.
I believe the only purpose of that bolt is to hold the tensioning rod in place as part of the tensioner assembly and has nothing to do with "locking" the tensioner rod in a certain adjusted position.

In the original camshaft timing chain tensioner (the one we replaced with another model), there is a mechanism that prevents recoil if the chain oscillates in a reduction.
In this tensioner there is no such mechanism, for that reason I think the screw must be fixed.

I am at a complete loss here. There is nothing in the Service Manual about any adjustment requirements of the timing chain tensioner. There are no specific instructions during the installation of the timing chain tensioner (Pg 61 in the manual) requiring any "adjustment" of the tensioner after installation.
I believe the only purpose of that bolt is to hold the tensioning rod in place as part of the tensioner assembly and has nothing to do with "locking" the tensioner rod in a certain adjusted position.

I found this metal washer mounted on the bolt that locks the timimg chain tensioner.

It prevented the tip of the screw from contacting the tensioner stem, leaving it free.




I removed the washer, let the tensioner spring do its job and then locked it with the nut.

Is that step performed correct or does the tensioner have to be free of movement?

globemaster wrote:

The washer should be on the timing chain tensioner bolt.  It is an oil sealing washer.  Kawasaki part number 92022-077.

In my case I found a metal washer, its thickness prevented fixing the tensioner plunger after adjusting the tension.

In no case did I find a washer of oil sealing material.

On my other KZs the tensioner can be locked by tightening the nut, preventing any teeth from jumping during a strong reduction.

The washer should be on the timing chain tensioner bolt.  It is an oil sealing washer.  Kawasaki part number 92022-077.

dcarver220b wrote:

Mine does have a washer behind it. Partzilla shows it having a washer.. I wonder if your washer is incorrectly sized?

This exploded drawing corresponds to the chain tensioner that drives the camshafts.
Not the chain tensioner that drives the water pump and the pickup.

dcarver220b wrote:

Anything to check on the other tensioner? 

The only thing that could happen if the other chain jumps a tooth the ignition timing will be off but that chain is so short  I doubt it will jump. the  tensioner on that chain is more about limiting the possible + - ignition changes.

 

Thanks guys, I feel that a problem shared, is a problem halved ( somebody famous once said that ).
The bolt has unfortunately not fallen thru to the sump. I removed that and apart from being full of a white glop from years of standing, it was absent of that bolt.
The pics and advice have been a great help and as soon as my new tools have arrived via Santa, I will keep you posted.
Having got the bike to run nicely, it all came crashing down due to a bent inlet valve. I thought that with recessed pistons for the valves, this should not happen. Anyway, it seems to of occurred to the cam chain tensioner failing and everything getting out of sync, something the forum has highlighted previously. I have now replaced it, but that was the reason I took the head off and subsequently dropped the bolt !!
Failing brand new spark plugs was the other issue. Took me ages to discover that one.
Still in the greater scheme of things in the world at present, minor problems.
Chrs
Bruce



 

Kawboy wrote:

All the information you require is in another post  Manual Timing Chain Initial Tension Setting

Regarding adjusting and finding a loose spot in the chain.  -  you have to appreciate that when the timing chain rotates the camshafts, as the camshaft lobes rollover the shim buckets there's force required to push down the shim bucket and then as a lobe rolls over the center point, the valve spring pushes the camshaft forward so there's a lot of intermittent tugging on the chain. It's hard to adjust it right when you are rolling it over by hand. I suspect that the chain is fine and you just have to tighten up the tensioner a little more.
I prefer to adjust the manual tensioners while the engine is running. Back off the locking nut and pull back the o ring so it is not adding any force on the tensioning rod. then start the engine and turn in the adjuster by hand, using your fingers only, no tools feeling for when the vibrations of the tensioning rod smooth out, and then lock it down. All you are trying to do is take up the slack in the chain and apply a light load to the adjuster.

Thanks for the quick reply.
My question is directed at the tension that the chain that transmits the movement of the crankshaft to the primary shaft must have. I have noticed some slack.

All the information you require is in another post  Manual Timing Chain Initial Tension Setting

Regarding adjusting and finding a loose spot in the chain.  -  you have to appreciate that when the timing chain rotates the camshafts, as the camshaft lobes rollover the shim buckets there's force required to push down the shim bucket and then as a lobe rolls over the center point, the valve spring pushes the camshaft forward so there's a lot of intermittent tugging on the chain. It's hard to adjust it right when you are rolling it over by hand. I suspect that the chain is fine and you just have to tighten up the tensioner a little more.
I prefer to adjust the manual tensioners while the engine is running. Back off the locking nut and pull back the o ring so it is not adding any force on the tensioning rod. then start the engine and turn in the adjuster by hand, using your fingers only, no tools feeling for when the vibrations of the tensioning rod smooth out, and then lock it down. All you are trying to do is take up the slack in the chain and apply a light load to the adjuster.

I return to the thread after a few weeks waiting for the distribution chain tensioner purchased on EBAY, it has finally arrived!
 

After assembling it and ensuring the chain tension manually, I continued turning the crankshaft and I noticed some slack in the chain connecting it to the secondary shaft. Using the endoscopic camera I recorded the movement of the chain.
My question is this:
Is this normal slack or is the chain stretched?
Does it have to be replaced or can it be adjusted somehow without removing the engine?
Thanks for the answers.

youtube.com/shorts/lJfdgwjJ8ww
youtube.com/shorts/rlkPUl2TglQ

I'm having trouble uploading the video.
It has been published in the "Short" configuration.

 

Your endoscope revealed that the engine was rebuilt as the story was told and it is a shame that it sat for 20 years seaside causing a rusted tank.
your endoscope pictures are a good historical reference for the future.
The pictures of the cam chain tensioner and tensioner idler confirm the low mileage. All Good !!

biltonjim wrote:

Loosening the mounting screws on the tensioner as you described could have resulted in over tensioning the cam chain when you re-tightened them. 

Assembling the chain tensioner correctly, I realized that it moved back a few millimeters when moving the chain up and down by hand between the two axles, resulting in loss of tension.
The way I did the test, moving the tensioner back a couple of millimeters before tightening the screws, the chain did not come loose or lose tension again.
Anyway, this was as a test to check the correct operation of the motor, making sure that the chain is tensioned without losing its shape when rotating.
As I said in another post, I am waiting for a new tensioner with a different design than the original.

Loosening the mounting screws on the tensioner as you described could have resulted in over tensioning the cam chain when you re-tightened them. 

Well, I was able to get an endoscopic camera.

With the valve cover and the timing chain tensioner removed, I was able to take photos to verify the condition of the guide sprocket and the rubber wheel of the tensioner.
ts condition is perfect, I am not going to remove the engine head.



I have also discovered how to correct the malfunction of the tensioner that loosens itself.

I have loosened the screws that hold the body of the tensioner two turns, I have tightened the central nut that fixes the position of the tensioner, then I have tightened the retaining screws and it has not loosened again.
 




I have started the engine and it sounds fine, without any noise.

I AM NOW WAITING FOR THE ARRIVAL OF A MANUAL SCREW TENSIONER BOUGHT ON EBAY.

It seems that I see the light at the end of the tunnel again. 

Thanks for the help Kawboy.
I read everything regarding FACS in addition to the threads dealing with timing chain tensioners.
Before testing the bike I loosened the tensioner screw so that the spring could do its job, seriously, the engine sounded good, the failure occurred when the RPM increased which makes me think that the nylon gear or the rubber bearing They were already damaged.
Consider that the motorcycle only has 24,000km. The chain tensioner assembly should be in good use.
This week I will try to disassemble the cylinder head and look for the damaged parts.
Thanks again.