kz1300 banner

Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me
  • Page:
  • 1
  • 2

TOPIC:

1981 KZ1300 for sale 2 months 2 weeks ago #30481

  • Ted
  • Ted's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Junior Member
  • Junior Member
  • Posts: 28
  • Thank you received: 3
For sale is my 1981 KZ1300 with 7798 US miles on the ODO. I rescued it a year ago having sat for 30 years, got it cleaned up and running with help from you guys.

The downers first. The carbs will have to be cleaned thoroughly. The idle screws are capped (thanks, EPA) and I have not drilled them out. The pipe for the #1 cylinder isn't as hot as the rest, I can hear that at least one cylinder is not pulling it's weight, and it won't idle. None of the plugs are fowled nor look lean from what I recall; it is not missing and I've gotten as high as 37 mpg and 25 mpg doing 80+. The fuel solenoid went bad as they all have so you have to manually turn on and off the fuel, but I retained the solenoid. I have the windshield for the Windjammer III; I just took it off for the summer months and still clear. It's cigarette lighter works; I just keep it in the pocket. The fairing is cracked on the right side; I have repaired it with a bracket. You can thank the previous owner for the paint on the gas tank being lightly frayed and paint on the front fender's faded/corroded presumably from brake fluid. The turn signals blink fast at around 5000 RPM's. The headlight works fine on bright; the low beam is took weak to matter. The right engine cover is cracked which I repaired with Permatex and it held for a couple of months, but it just started seeping again. A welder said that the crack is too recessed to be welded. It uses oil though I don't know where it's going as it doesn't smoke nor do the plugs fowl.

The plusses are the low miles, new Avon tires, new battery, new plugs, and I verified that the valves are in spec. When the mains open up, the thing roars and you can hear the whooshing of the air. The cooling system works immaculately. Even at high speed on a hot day, the gauge creeps up a bit, but backs off when you do. It stays cool riding around town does not trigger the electric fan; I had to test it to make sure it works. Aside from the above, the electronics work. I have a new, spare clutch cable in the trunk in you break one away from home. The trunk and a fairing locking pockets and the trunk has a backrest pad. The seat is likely a Mustang as the previous owner had one on another bike. Included is what appears to be the original took kit which didn't look like anyone touched it before me. The air shocks still hold air; you need them when over 80.
I am selling it because it's larger and heavier than normally care for and, after putting a couple thousand on it, I decided the maintenance isn't worth the nice ride. Bike is located in Presho, SD US and the title is so clear that you can fold it and use it burn ants on the sidewalk. Potential buyers are welcome to look, but not welcome to insult me by pointing out it's flaws.

Having researched ads on line, I'm asking $5000 and you guys get first crack before it goes on Flee-bay. (The last pic is a 'before', just for kicks).
1981 KZ1300, '98 Suzuki GSF1200S, '80 Honda CT110, '11 Honda CBR250, '75 Honda CL360, '00 Honda XR100R
Speak softly and mount a fast bike.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by Ted.

1981 KZ1300 for sale 1 month 1 week ago #30612

  • EC Approved
  • EC Approved's Avatar
  • Offline
  • New Member
  • New Member
  • Posts: 2
  • Thank you received: 0
Hey Ted is this still around?

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 KZ1300 for sale 1 month 1 week ago #30619

  • Ted
  • Ted's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Junior Member
  • Junior Member
  • Posts: 28
  • Thank you received: 3
It's still around, but I've cooled off substantially since the post.  I was quite angry at the time.
     Since then, I've sealed up the generator cover oil leaks after finding a second crack and shaving a second warped surface.  After 3 trips to competent welder, I got it to seal.
     In an effort to solve the problem with the #1 cylinder header being colder than the others, I took the carbs off and apart for a third time.  After two hours researching old posts, I cleaned the transition ports using Scotch's method and found that the #1 cylinder transition port had been partially obstructed; I was elated to see the carb cleaner finally flow out of it.  I also drill the pilot screw caps off and will adjust the pilots.  I'm now waiting for some new Kawasaki pilot O-rings, will sync the carbs, and am eager to see how it runs.
  In summary, I'll see what happens when I get it back together.
1981 KZ1300, '98 Suzuki GSF1200S, '80 Honda CT110, '11 Honda CBR250, '75 Honda CL360, '00 Honda XR100R
Speak softly and mount a fast bike.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 KZ1300 for sale 1 month 1 week ago #30621

  • dcarver220b
  • dcarver220b's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Sustaining Member
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 398
  • Thank you received: 96
Good on yah bud. Keep the old gurl. The satisfaction when she purrs will be worth it. DAMHIK.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 KZ1300 for sale 1 month 1 week ago #30622

  • McZee
  • McZee's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Premium Member
  • Premium Member
  • Posts: 81
  • Thank you received: 42
It's not the first time I've shoved mine into the garage and, Basil Fawlty style, told it. "You're going on the bay of fleas first thing tomorrow morning, you great big heap of junk" I wouldn't part with it now though. 

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 KZ1300 for sale 4 weeks 6 hours ago #30651

  • Ted
  • Ted's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • Junior Member
  • Junior Member
  • Posts: 28
  • Thank you received: 3
I have an update on my tweaks if anyone cares.  Yesterday, my genuine Kawasaki O-rings finally came in and I put them in.  There is a huge difference in pliability.  I was pleasantly surprised that the girl finally idles.

I put on the Kawasaki mercury sticks which don't display numbers, only horizontal lines.  The level pertaining to the #1 carb was about 2" below the others and I had to turn significantly, clockwise I think, to bring them in line.  As a result, the RPM's decreased though I expected an increase and had to turn up the idle screw.  I also backed off the fast idle screw while the tank was off in an effort to get it to not race so much when cold.

Today, I fired her up and she didn't seem as smooth when cold, but it's hard to tell.  I took her for a ride and there is definitely less hesitation when starting out and less, if any, fluttering when cruising at lower RPM's.  Additionally, power delivery when 'transitioning' to the mains is much smoother where before it had surged, hence the term 'transition ports' I guess.  Overall, she runs much better and continues to idle which is a large improvement in itself.

Thus, I will keep her for another year.  My only question so far is if it's normal for a decrease in RPM's when syncing the carbs?  I can only assume that the #1 carb had been pulling harder .before.
1981 KZ1300, '98 Suzuki GSF1200S, '80 Honda CT110, '11 Honda CBR250, '75 Honda CL360, '00 Honda XR100R
Speak softly and mount a fast bike.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Page:
  • 1
  • 2
Time to create page: 0.081 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum