Good day KZ1300 brethren! I hesitated to ask this, and spent time in all 21 pages of the engine forum. I thought I remembered seeing a sticky post of the top “tricky” items you should do aware of if you get the engine out for a rebuild. Well... my 79 KZ A is in process of a tear down and refresh. I did this last in 1988, with lots of help from a buddy that wrenched at the local KZ dealer, Shawnee Kawasaki in KC. After 25 years of sitting, she’s coming back to life. She started and ran... which started the financial downfall of my wallet. I was going to do my best replace a few parts and get her on the road dance, which lead to a full restore/rebuild. She is now in a custom shop in Indy. I don’t have access to the time and tools I once did so I let her out of my control.
The shop owner and I are talking over the engine, He has lots of 900/1000 experience and has built several 13’s in the past. I am looking into the top things that MUST be considered into anytime the engine comes out. From this perspective a rebuild is a rebuild, but some things may look good or spec out, but should always be very throughly checked or just outright replaced/upgraded regardless.,
The list includes:
1. Tensioner (done - changed to manual)
2. Cam chain gear - consider the Liska
3. Lower rubber cam guide wheels (look to MCG)
4. Water pump deep dive (gear, shaft, impeller - again to MCG... $$$$)
5. And so on...
All the rest of the build should fall into the standard review of any engine: Cam chains, bearings, oil pump and drive condition, valves, starts, cylinders, the whole sha-bang. I just want to be sure to tap the collective wisdom and not miss the opportunity to replace or very throughly inspect something that might be otherwise deemed ok.
Thanks in advance for any responses! Wishing you all good health and prosperity!
80 KDX 175
2003 KDX 220
2001 Gas Gas 300
Cam chain- check stretch (specs in the manual)
Primary and secondary drive chains check stretch - also specs in the manual.
Valves and valve seats- Most need to be reworked. Be careful if the shim thickness are 2.80mm or larger (up to 3.00mm) If the existing shims are in this range, new valve seats will likely be needed (specialty work).
Tensioner wheel - the rubber one below the tensioning gear- some have reported finding destroyed rubber wheels
Water pump drive gear?? Nylon gear- check for cracks MCG I think had replacements
Stator windings- check resistance.
Stator feed wire connector plug- check high resistance and consider replacing the connector or soldered connections.