TOPIC:

I'm reading the service Manuel and having a hard time coming to terms with torqueing valve cover bolts to 11ft-lbs/ 132 in-lbs.
I never thought those little bolts could take that and I don't want to strip out a bolt on the valve cover. Any input would be welcome.

I never thought those little bolts could take that and I don't want to strip out a bolt on the valve cover.

I agree. I torque these (This size) to 80 inch pounds, initially. If there's any 'weeping" an additional 5 inch pounds. If weeping continues, I replace the gasket.

A long time ago... in a garage far far, away... back before I owned a an inch point wrench and believed tighter is always better... I over tightened the outside valve cover bolt and an outer section of the head cracked off. Ugly little scar from that point on, but lesson learned!

The Machinery's Handbook  may be a little much for the average Joe to have in his library, but it's in mine. Full of all kinds of information regarding machining practices, fits and tolerances. So in lieu of this , here's a snap shot from www.classicmotors.com of a torque chart for different metric fasteners.

 

 

I havn't read the M.M. for the specific torque procedure for many of the parts on the 1300 but have a background in Aircraft maintenance and unless it says lube torque all bolts should be clean and dry. No lube. 
I say this because a recent poster on a FB 1300 forum stated lube the bolts then start at 12 o'clock and go clockwise or counter clockwise to tighten.  Not good advise.

I may be speaking heresy, but I honestly think I only busted out the torque wrench for the head bolts and whatever is bolted to the crankshaft either side (starter mechanism or stator, depending).  The valve cover I did hit with a general criss-cross pattern, but any actual torque values were just me choking up on the ratchet handle and eeking up on what felt tight.  The only leaking issues I ever had were occasionally from the cam plugs, and a new set fixed that no problem.

As always, your mileage may vary.