TOPIC:

Kawboy wrote: You will need to remove the cylinder head to gain access to the flat of the water pump shaft. You need to put a wrench on the shaft to hold the shaft while removing the nuts. If you don't do this, you will crack the nylon gear on the drive shaft. Refer to pages 74 & 76 of the service manual.

Thank you covboy.....first i ll try to fill the corroded areas by argon welding and reshape the shaft to normal sizeby rasping,,,,,,durıng welding must be carefull not to damege the plastic gear back side of the shaft.......

drz1300 wrote:

Kawboy wrote: You will need to remove the cylinder head to gain access to the flat of the water pump shaft. You need to put a wrench on the shaft to hold the shaft while removing the nuts. If you don't do this, you will crack the nylon gear on the drive shaft. Refer to pages 74 & 76 of the service manual.

Thank you Kawboy.....first I'll try to fill the corroded areas by argon welding and reshape the shaft to normal size by rasping,,,,,,during welding must be careful not to damage the plastic gear back side of the shaft.......

You could tig weld (argon weld) it but I would be concerned with warping the shaft. My preference here would be to have it brush plated with copper to fill the voids and cleaned up then a nickel plating over the copper to seal it all up. Not a common process but you should be able to find a brush plating company. If that's not available I would oxy-acetylene braze the voids and then file/polish the area.

The German shop do sell new shafts and impellers- made from "special steel " .

is there better access to the nut on the inner end of the impeller pump shaft from the underside of the block? If there is I will take the block off.

I've bought a stainless steel shaft and new mechanical seal from zed-parts.com (in UK) and cannot get the nut off the end of the shaft.  It needs two 12mm open ended spanners on the shaft and the nut but I think my nut is rounding.

I've taken the timing shaft out but the nylon bevel gear can't be removed until I get the impeller shaft out - this means I can't use heat on it

zed_thirteen wrote:

is there better access to the nut on the inner end of the impeller pump shaft from the underside of the block? If there is I will take the block off.

I've bought a stainless steel shaft and new mechanical seal from zed-parts.com (in UK) and cannot get the nut off the end of the shaft.  It needs two 12mm open ended spanners on the shaft and the nut but I think my nut is rounding.

I've taken the timing shaft out but the nylon bevel gear can't be removed until I get the impeller shaft out - this means I can't use heat on it
 

If you have the timing shaft out ( which is called the water pump drive shaft by the manual), can you not get a 6 point socket on the troubled nut. I can see where you would have to use an open end wrench on that nut if the water pump drive shaft was still in place  but you have it out?
 

Thanks, I have that shaft (the grey timing shaft) removed already. The nut I'm trying to remove is the one going forwards (between 5 & 6 in that image. Unfortunately the nylon bevel gear (part 6) cant be removed until after the impeller shaft comes out.

I googled a few images and it does look like access is much better from the underside so the barrels are coming off.  New base gasket and 'O'-rings going on order too. Not looking forward to battling with the rings going back in