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battery not charging 1 month 1 week ago #30317

  • Bucko
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In terms of resistance 'from one leg to the other', not sure what you mean. Do I need to take the stator out to do that or can I do that by clipping to the wires?
 

Just unplug the alternator connector and measure the resistance of each of the yellow wires to each of the other yellow wires - 3 measurements in total.

I know how to test a regular shunt type RR but i'm not familiar with testing a MOSFET regulator (assuming it's a 'series' type regulator). 
 
Hello from Canada's We(s)t coast.

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battery not charging 1 month 3 days ago #30358

  • McBoney
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Right, back from the show, did some checks.

All the connectors and wires in the entire system seemed undamaged, not melted, not corroded. 

There was no continuity between any of the yellow wires and the frame.

I do not have a 1 Ohm meter, but at 200 Ohm this was the reading for each of the three yellow wires:


 

Doesn't mean much I guess..but it was consistent between all of the wires.

Then I ran the engine at 4000 rpm and there was 31V coming out of each of the yellow wires. According to the manual that is too low by 20V.

Then I connected the regulator and ran the engine at 4000 rpm, and virtually no volts came out of the positive pin coming out of the regulator. 

So either the voltage going in to the regulator is too low for any volts to come out, meaning the stator is kaput, or 31V is enough going in and regulator is kaput.

Thoughts?
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battery not charging 1 month 3 days ago #30359

  • Kawboy
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The resistance measured is within spec, so that leads me to believe that your voltage check was not done as per manual. The output of the stator is +50V AC between  2 of the yellow leads and to do the test measure between lead #1 and #2, between #2 and #3 and between #3 and #1. ( Note that you can name the leads as you see fit) The point is that you need to check the output between each of the 3 leads to the other leads. I'm going to suggest that maybe you had the volt meter on DC or you were checking the output of each lead between the lead and ground??
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battery not charging 1 month 3 days ago #30360

  • McBoney
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Hi Kawboy,

I did try to follow the manual, but obviously (as I am an electrical numptie), I indeed did it wrongly.

I did measure between yellow and ground... I'll do yellow to yellow and report back.

However, IF that gives me 50V AC, then obviously the regulator is at fault? Is there a test specifically to determine that? The manual talks about 3 12V batteries etc... and lost me... 

Paul
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battery not charging 1 month 2 days ago #30362

  • scotch
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RE: Charging voltage and a couple of other details.My starter-motor  struggled with the last couple of starts.  My "Walmart" battery is 4/5 years old. Takes a charge and holds that charge.  Several weeks ago I had removed, cleaned and lubed the starter "because it was time" to check it..... simply as routine maintenance. Everything was OK, so it was more of a blow-out and bushing lube.
Checked the alternator output.   22/23 V.A.C X 3 @ 1000RPM and 72+ V.A.C. X 3 @ 3800 R.P.M.
Then measured the D.C output of my SH847AA. 14.57V @ 1000RPM immediately after the start.  Within two minutes: 13.5 VBack to the battery.  With an at-rest voltage of 12.5 volts I took it to my auto-parts store where the battery was load tested on 2 separate pieces of equipment. The first on a new garage-grade digital tester and then on an older manual analog tester. Quite amazed !   The test on both pieces of equipment showed 230CCA which matched the battery specs. After each test the voltage was 11.7 but within less than 1 minute returned to 12.5.Battery good ! 
The next culprit to check was the Starter relay.  (Last time it was apart was 5 years ago and ???? starts). One end of the Buss-bar and it's mating terminal had some (minor) arc-pitting. I removed the pitting, (wasn't deep) re-assembled , installed and tested with several starts.
All back to normal
1980 KZ 1300 sr# KZT30A-009997
Always High - Know Fear !
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battery not charging 1 month 2 days ago #30363

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I know you've done a ton of rewiring on this bike because I've been following your build so here I go back to the wiring diagram on page 286 of the Service Manual.
The charging output from the regulator/rectifier is the white wire with a red stripe. Following that on the wiring diagram, you'll see a junction at the fuse block where the output from that white/red wire is connected to another white wire/red stripe that leads back to the battery for charging purposes. That connection needs to be checked otherwise the output from the reg/rectifier has no place to go. The reg/rectfier monitors the output of that wire to determine the voltage and if it's above the set point charging voltage, the reg/rectifier will shunt the determined excess voltage to ground.
The output on that white/red stripe wire should be around 13.8-14.7V DC. 
If resting voltage of the battery( ignition off) is as an example 13.2V then charging voltage at 3500-4000 rpm with all accessories on I would like to see 13.8-14V at the battery terminals. Now that being said, you have a LIFEPO4 battery in that beast and it should have a resting voltage of 13.8V so charging voltage at 4000 rpm would be preferred at 14.3- 14.7V DC with all accessories on.
Bottom line any measured voltage above resting voltage will be charging the battery as opposed to anything less than resting voltage would be a discharging of the battery.
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