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Thanks chaps, will take on board the pointers re floats and investigate - just so bloody frustrating
I went out of my way to buy genuine (wallet damaging) Mikuni float valves, O rings, gaskets etc and new Dyna coils & leads to help running - thing that is really annoying is that I had just got her running the best she ever has - was an absolute pleasure to ride for all of the 200 miles - bugger !

Re other classic bikes: I'm fortunate to own a few other Jap classics (Z900, CBX's - Water Buffalo's, RD Yams etc) and whilst Ive had some expected age related failure problems (sounds a bit like me) Ive not had a serial offender like my Z13, just wondered if others had a different "problem child" lurking in their garages.
Will let you know when I get to the bottom of the latest issue: really want to ride her this summer. Cheers Tim.

I have two -82 A4 models, Ari has four different carb bikes and we do not experience any flooding or fuel leaking issues. Why? Because we have installed a manual shut-off valve on all our bikes between the tank and carbs. One learns to use it quickly and it eliminates the problems of original valve sticking when hot and leaking during longer standing.

My experience is that the 1300's are very sensitive to the float level as well. Really the weak point in carburetors that are otherwise pretty good.

I used the Keyster replacement float vales when I cleaned mine up, they worked just fine. If you are using original parts you may need to lap the needle and valve body together.

I wonder why they didn't put rubber tipped float valves in these carbs?

Herewith post Of mine from a while back that Scotch mentioned


I recently received more carb overhaul kits from Cruzinimage as I am about to rebuild 3 sets of carbs. Just awaiting delivery of the brass floats from Scotch who has been very helpful and prompt with his shipping of the floats.(Will be interesting to see how long they take to arrive in Zim - will keep you posted Scotch!)
Having said all that, I am going off this weekend on a rally and as my bike has had continuous problems with floading, I decided to check and clean up the ones on the bike. I had major problems trying to get the float levels sorted, the levels tended to be all over the place, when wanting to lower the level, I was suddenly floading and the same when I was raising the level.....bugger!!! After a few hours of cursing and swearing and wishing I had Scotch's floats in hand, I investigated deeper.....This is what I found...... Pic above!

The needle retaining clip from Cruzinimage is a different dimension height wise in comparison to the OEM clip, although very small, it was having an effect on my settings. Sometimes snagging and/or obstructing the float needle tang.

I changed the clips to the original OEM ones.....and waaaallllaaaaa!!!!! Within a short period all was sorted!!!

The clip on the left is from Cruzinimage and measures approx 3.3mm in height and the one on the right is OEM and ,measures approx 2.8mm in Height

Really glad to hear you sorted out the "Clip" issue. Makes you wonder how difficult it is for someone to recreate a simple spring clip to a spec.? I ended up making my own from a suitably sized tension-spring and a pair of needle-nose pliers. The first couple weren't pretty but got the third, fourth and fifth attempt satisfactory for the three required. A whole season of riding last year without issue ! Sometimes you have to spring into action on your own !

Thanks for the mention Craig ! Now that you've let the cat outta the bag I'm sure there's some of us curious as to how long it will take to get the Cleaning Tool to Zimbabwe !

RE: Rubber tips on the float-valve needles. Rubber will wear down and rubber will eventually break-down. With todays blended fuels and all that controversy I'm glad the needles are all steel ! If there's no physical damage to the needle-tip and/or seat and if your Floats are Floating there is no reason to have any other type.
I've rebuilt some UGLY carbs. The '79s that I used for the Carb Cleaning article were about the worst. Stalactites and stalagmites in the venturi's, most ports and galleries impacted with rust as well as completely plugged (with rust) fuel supply runners. So bad in the fuel runners that once the float-valve body was removed I had to dig-out the impacted rust that was imbedded above it. My point is that I have never had to replace a needle-valve assembly. Once cleaned - they have all shut off 100%. Nor have I had any concern regarding the need to "lap" the two. I have a jewellers-loop that I use a great deal to get a close-up look at such details. In the case of needles and seats: Unless they've been dropped and sustained damage there's no reason to replace them. To clean the seat in the valve-body I use a Q-tip with a very FINE jewellers paste to ensure there's no foreign material stuck to the seat surface. The needle gets a cleaning with a soft cloth and Lacquer thinner. The needle is made of material that in my opinion is too hard to lap, anyway. If they continue to leak inclusive of a new O-ring - they need replacing !