TOPIC:

from kawby

I really don't like that Kawasaki calls it a "tensioner" ............, 2-3mm of up and down slack between the 2 camshafts would be what I consider righteous.

Certainly agree with you KB. "Tensioner" could be confusing to the initiated. But easier to say then; " Device to take up cam-chain slack without applying un-necessary stress on the cam-system". or the "D.T.T.U.C-C.S.W.O.A.U.-N S.O.T.C.-S." Ya.....it's a "tensioner"
As far as chain deflection..... I've always viewed this as a point where there should be no slack, or "deflection". I say this because rotating the crank (by hand) tightens the chain between the cams and I'm hard-pressed (no pun intended) to get any deflection by merely pushing down on the chain between the cams, with just a finger.
A point of view from a different perspective perhaps?

Well, the CCSL (cam chain slack limiter) adjustment went right. What I did is grind that cone on the end of it to make it flat, then spent some time carefully polishing to a perfect flat using a 1500 paper placed on a glass. Then with finger found where it's making contact with the roller observing it through the top of the engine and what's the reaction. Then inserted a few times the tensioner with different adjustments until that point and backed it off a bit, and bolted.

Turned the engine a couple times and all is fine. I tried to put oil wherever I could from the top and all became quiet and smooth after a couple of turns.

The timing markings are in the same place, which is a good thing. I noticed though that the mark on the exhaust is exactly on the same level as the head surface. But the intake mark is about 3-4 mm above. I am sure this is how I installed it, and makes me think I am off with this and need to readjust and move the cam to the next point.
I didn't feel any resistance rotating the engine, but mind you, this was the first time it did after many many years.

Am I right? OR wrong actually - because I correctly counted the 17 point and what it seems the leveling of the marks on the cams is not laser perfect.

I will post a photo in a few minutes. I chose this position on the exhaust because otherwise from what it looks the mark would be below the head surface, so I chose the next up, like in the service manual and the picture. Then counted 17 on the chain to the mark on the inlet and bolted all down. Now looking back just wondering if all is correct.

Just so it's clear, I kept the chain tight and turned the crank to align the 'T' mark.
When putting the chain over the exhaust sprocket I kept the tension and aligned the mark as close to the head surface level as possible. The 'T' mark alignment stayed perfectly on the mark the whole time till the end. Had I turned the chain to level better the mark on the exhaust - the 'T' would loose it's place.

So, I guess all is good, or should the exhaust go one space clockwise? But then, the intake mark would be above the head level, but that's in a way is irrelevant because the number '17' is what's important. (thinking aloud..)

So, again, the question would be - is the exhaust the way it is set properly or should it go to the right?

The exhaust.





The intake.

I've been playing with the engine looking at it from all the possible angles and squirted more oil everywhere I have access to from the top. More turns and everything is actually very smooth and quiet! Also added some oil into the oil filling whole and let it drip all over the clutch for distribution when it's moving. Looked inside on every piston - all looks great! I think the dripping through all the passages oil reached many places. I don't want to overdue it though.
It's very easy to turn the engine without the spark plugs now with more oil in places it feels like absolutely no resistance except compressing the valve springs and dragging the pistons.

I think all is fine, but I still would like to know the opinion about the markings. Someone mentioned chain stretch, and in the excitement I forgot to take it into the equation.
I will recheck the tensioner, install the starter, close the left cover, and temporarily cover the head with the cylinder cover. I am thinking about needing more space when installing the electrical system etc., so I might have to take it off again.

I hope you guys understand the feeling of a little panic and the almost obsession like need to ask for opinions! I've been waiting for this moment for a long time, and have been working so hard to get to this point. When I look at the old photos, even if I would be stopping it now, I think I can pat myself on the back for the work done. It's not over yet and it will take a bit longer, but it seems to me that the project deserves to be acknowledged as already partially resurrected. It does seem to me that the engine is actually ready to breathe! Now the peripherals, many of which are just on stand by waiting to be mounted. Then the tuning.

Under the circumstances Stan, I don't think you will get it any better than what you have. This whole camshaft drive system relies on a drive chain between the crankshaft and the secondary shaft and then the camshaft drive chain. Any slack in the primary chain will add retarded timing to the set up and the same thing with any stretch in the camshaft drive chain.
Judging by the pic, you almost have enough slack in the chains to advance the cams one tooth but then the cams will be advanced more than if you had new chains in the engine. It would be close and you could only confirm this with a dial gauge. There's 36 teeth on the cam sprocket. A change of 1 tooth on the cam equates to 10 degrees cam rotation or 20 degrees crank rotation. Without being able to measure your setup with a dial gauge and judging by your pic, I would guess your somewhere around 12-15 degrees retarded. That dot on the cam is just to indicate which tooth tip is to align with the top of the engine. If you advance the cams by one tooth in your case, you might be ( a little math here) 12-15 degrees retarded + 20 degrees advanced = 5-8 degrees advanced. This situation is unique to the KZ engine because the cams are being driven off of the secondary shaft. Most engines drive the cam off of the crank for obvious reasons.
This whole aspect is why I intend on modifying my cams to include an ajustable cam sprocket. The cam sprocket from a Honda CRF450 is identical to the cam sprocket built in to the KZ1300 cams. I will cut off the KZ1300 sprocket and leave enough material to flange mount a CRF450 cam sprocket and leave slots in the setup so I have 1 tooth of adjustment to fine tune the cams.
You want to see what I go through to time the 4 camshafts in my Porsche 928. It takes me 4 hours to dismantle the engine so I can get to the cams and another 3 hours to make the adjustment, but once I'm done she sounds soooooo sweet !!

Here's a little tease for you Stan. kz1300.com/index.php/forum/search?query=...5/2018&childforums=1


Hope this explanation helps with your thinking here.
KB