TOPIC:

The main failures are lack of oil and camshaft tensioner design.

It is recommended that the deep sump and pick up are fitted if you can form a newer model Z13 along with a cam chain tensioner from a ZX11 (ZZ-R1000) with it's spring length reduced by 10mm.

I have done the CCT mod but not the sump. I keep looking out for a larger sump but they command a lot of money as they are in demand. I don't hammer mine anymore (it's been off the road for 5 years though) and think you are ok as long as you keep an eye on the oil level and keep it topped up.

Personally I think the brakes are underpowered for such a heavy machine but I suppose they were the business in it's day.

I also find setting up the carbs to be a bit of a black art. The workshop manual incorrectly states the idle/pilot mixture screws need to be 1&1/2 turns out but they really need to be 3 to 3&1/2 (as a starting point).

Some of the electrical circuits can fail. Like the hazard lights, which is normally switch gear needs cleaning up. I've also had a 2 or 3 turn signal self cancelling units stop working - I've given up replacing this now.

On the whole the machine is solid.

I 100% agree with zed_thirteen.

What must be remembered is that we own a 35 year old design bike, with 35 year old technology but if updated thoughtfully & carefully are still a superb machine.
It only has ONE electrical relay onboard, and thats for the fan !!

The wiring in general is poor & under rated for the bike, so its well worth checking EVERY block connector & switch for corrosion (especially the alternator to rectifier block as they often burn out (best soldered) Also the start switch rots as its metal & positioned at the base of its casing where all the water collects.
I have upgraded my switches to newer ZRX1200R switches which means upgrading the wiring loom substantially & adding 4 relays, but it makes a world of difference & increases reliability.


I also always convert my 1300's to a hydraulic clutch, as the cable mechanism is poor & often fails. I have already posted a topic on how to do this on this site somewhere.

All in all, the 1300/6 is a great bike with tons of character & an inline 6 is always a delight to ride, feel & hear.

Get the bike up & running first & then go for the most important modes like the camchain tensioner & sump, then go through the rest one by one.

Regards

Pete F

and...

some manuals have spark plug type listed as BPR8ES whereas they should be BPR6ES (or BPR5ES if you need to go hotter)

which reminds me - standard coils are prone to cracking and breaking down under load. If you need to change them for something better be careful on overall impedance as the standard coils are 1.5 ohm with 1.5 ohm ballast resistor. If you replace them with 3 ohm coils you need to ditch the ballast resistor.

I like this thread !

Also...........

Run an earth lead to the frame & another to the rear of the engine separately, both from the battery negative pole.

The reason for this, is over time corrosion sets in where the frame touches the engine mounts, and weakens the earth connections between the engine & frame.
This can often cause a weak spark & all kinds of other electrical issues due to a bad return earth to the battery.

Not many people know of this issue, but I have cured many electrical faults on many peoples bikes by doing this after they have tried all other avenues trying to fix them.

Pete F

hi pete,

i have decided to go down the path as per you suggestion regarding the sump as i have discovered myn has still the old 1979 sump.... i ve found a 6 litre one which i bought but looking at it, without opening up underneath the engine and at first glance, im having trouble identifying the sucker tube that you are advising to extend....

the website i have included , see below, has an exploded view of the pan.....can you kindly point out which is that pipe please? thanks again

www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1979-kz1300-a1_mo...t/66688.html#results

part number 5 is the oil pick-up