Rebuilt cam chain tensioner

I don't know why you would have to replace the con rods. Maybe a set of con rod bearings??
There's lots of conrods on EBay. I come across them a lot and it buffalo's me why they even post them. The only time I've replaced a conrod was when someone broke one at overrevving the engine.

Here's a set here for $64.00 USD   KZ1300 connecting Rods EBay $64

Mission rebuild has begun, secured a crankshaft with rods still on the crank and 2 camshafts on ebay, I know it can be a risk but they look good in the photos, I have bought items from this seller before and thy have been fine. I'm certain I'm going with all new bearings on the crank, rods and the two on the secondary shaft. Cylinder bore is stock so the rebore wont be as big as first thought. I'll be getting the head looked at but don't expect there to be any issues with it, I've seen 'heavy duty' springs advertised but will probably stick with stock as the unly upgrade I will be doing is a Delkovic 6 in to 2 system further down the track, just want the old girl to run smooth as silk.

You've got a plan. Nice !! Here's hoping the crank lives up to your expectations.

Hi Kawboy, Engine is all but complete, I have renewed all bearings, chains, pistons and nearly all other components internally that I could. Cylinder head has been professionally rebuilt with all new components, I have rebuilt the cam chain tensioner with replacement spring and push rod from CMSNL, I was unable to source a new retainer bearing but in all fairness the original one is in great shape so I've re used it, the cam chain is as tight as a drum and it all turns over without any binding. 
My question is, most people opt for the 'upgrade' on their tensioners should I do the same or stick with the rebuilt original? your advice on this would be most welcome.

I truly believe that for most 1300 owners out there, that the original tensioners tare he right choice. It's self adjusting, has the right tension and seems to be the best match.

The locking mechanism is the weak point and absolutely needs to be addressed and I think the proper way to do that is the simple mod Scotch has done to add a stop bolt and lock nut to the back end of the tensioner. Its only purpose is to guarantee that the locking mechanism in the event of failure, doesn't allow the tensioning rod to back off, which would leave the chain loose enough to allow the timing to jump. On a periodic basis, you just tighten up the bolt just until it touches the end of the tensioning rod and lock it in place. Best part is, it's a cheap fix, does its job and looks like it was always there.

Have a read through  Cam chain tensioner upgrade  and I think it might convince you to make this mod.

KB