ZN1300 Injection to Carbs Conversion.

Hi Guys.
I have a 1986 ZN1300 where I have removed the fuel injection and fitted carbs however there is a problem with the Igniter as it gets some information from the Injection computer and will not run above idle.
It starts instantly but wont go above a fast idle.
I have changed to a 2nd set of carbs from a running Z1300 but get the same result.
I have also changed out the igniter with the correct part number unit but get the same result.
Using a timing light the timing advance goes to full on as soon as any throttle is used.
If anyone out there has done this conversion on a ZN1300 or a ZG1300, how did you get around the wiring or igniter issue?
Cheers
Denis

Did you have a problem with the original fuel injection system that couldn’t be fixed?

Hi Denis,
Interesting project. I too have a ZN1300 and I've considered going to carbs.
I wonder if one of the after market ignition systems won't be the solution if you can find one that can handle three coils.
Thanks for breaking new ground.
Bill

The ignition module on the '79 project was DEAD.  I bought a used one from Flea-Bay that was advertise as "Off a running bike". " Tested and working".  Blah, blah blah..... Discovered Cyl.'s #3 & 4 were DEAD !
Eventually got a refund from eBay.....after 2-1/2 months of bullshit !
Little choice now, so "bit-the-bullet" (More like a Hand-grenade) and went with a "Carmo Digital Ignitor".  A direct plug-in and it does NOT use the Ballast resistor !   My '80 has been sparking without fault with this same G.M.  6 cyl. Ignition coil (Block) and because the '79 didn't have the reed-valve boxes, the G.M. coil-block mounted perfectly to the Bottom of the Coil mounting plate with no Cam Cover work required and mounts using only 2 bolts. 2 holes must be drilled in the plate.
Wiring is SIMPLE and and the spark would impress Nicolas Tesla ! 
Where as the majority of 1300's have the Reed Boxes and they must be removed for this ignition coil to fit, there are 2 solutions.  A hacksaw and some filing or a simple task for a machine shop.  The porting can be filled with epoxy (as I did with my '80) with no concerns or consequences !)
Given the relatively simple work required and specifically the ease of removal for doing shims; I can't understand why this Mod. isn't more prevalent given it's simplicity and significant cost savings over the traditional option.  The original picture was of the wiring required for using the ballast resistor. With the need to remove the B.R. for the Carmo igniter, I photo-shop'd the picture to show the wiring change for this application.
 


This speaks for itself !
 




 

Hi Scotch,
Could you give me the height of the box coils? I assuming when you say remove the reed boxes you talking about more than just replacing the covers with a flat plate. Am I correct?
Thanks
Bill

Happy New Year Bill !

Standard Motor Products DR36T ignition coil  - 6 x 4.63 x 3.75 inches (Length x Width x Height)
Regarding the need to remove the "Reed-boxes" :  "Right down to the top of the cam cover".   The coil can then be removed easily prior to the removal of the Cam-cover.