Z1300 Tech FAQ

Z1300 - KZ1300

ZG1300 - ZN1300

Tech FAQ Page

Last Update 7/04/08

This page is written with the assumption that you have a service manual for your 1300 to refer to.  If you don't have a manual, there are posts on the links page of places to buy New or Used manuals and/or microfiche on the web for a good price.  Used manuals can be bought at auction on ebay.com easily for as little as $10 or $15 on occasion, to maybe $35.00 or more, depending on who you're bidding against that week.  New manuals are about $55 - $65 last I checked, so don't pay too much for a used one.  

There are basically 2 manuals - one which is the base manual for all the Z1300 or KZ1300 carb models, and the other which is a ZN1300 supplement manual.  It is only needed if you own a fuel injected ZN1300 Voyager, or a fuel injected ZG1300.  So if you own a Voyager 1300 or ZG1300 you need both manuals.  If you own a Z1300 or KZ1300 through 1983 when those models ended production, you only need the KZ1300 Base manual.  If you own a ZG1300, which is more like a Z1300 or KZ1300 with basically the same fuel injection system as used on our 83' and newer ZN1300 Voyager here in the USA, then you need both manuals - the Base and the Supplement.  Now there may be another specific ZG1300 Supplement manual that was sold overseas that I'm not aware of, that deals specifically with the fuel injected ZG1300 model.  I've never heard of a manual like that myself though.

Also, there are different year printings on the manuals, so if you have an 81', 82', or 83' model bike, you can't use a manual that was printed in 80', because it won't cover but 79' and 80' models.  Be sure to look on the back pages to see if it has supplements for the 81',  82' and the newer printings have the 83' models also.  All the manuals cover the 79' and 80' model, but if you've got an 81', 82' or 83', then again, you need to check the back pages of the manual to make sure it has a supplement for 81', 82' or 83' if that's the year bike you have.  I'm specifically referring to the few extra pages in the very back of the Base manual referred to as 'supplements', that cover changes made to the bike specifically for 81', 82' and 83' models.  If you own an 81', 82' or 83' model, you have to have the corresponding supplement in the back to fix the parts of your bike that are covered in those single year supplement pages.

There are a number of reference manuals for the ZN1300 Voyager besides the base service manual and supplement manual that I describe above.  Depends on what part of the bike you're trying to fix.  On my paid member page - http://www.kz1300.com/paidmember.html

...you'll see the list of manuals, and I have everything I show on that page on the paid member DVD's if you choose to become a paid member.  But maybe you can find hardcopy versions of these manuals from time to time on ebay if you prefer to try that route.

To reiterate.  If you need to do mechanical service on a ZN1300 Voyager or possibly a ZG1300, you need the KZ1300 'Base Manual' and the ZN1300 Voyager 'Service Manual Supplement'.  Manuals with a White cover should be newer printings, and manuals with Red covers are typically older printings of our manuals.  A manual with a red cover could be a late printing with the 83' model supplements in the back, but you will definitely want to check if you're buying one of these manuals used.

Regardless, you have to make sure the base manual is a later printing and has (at minimum) the 82' KZ1300 supplement pages in the back of it.  If it covers the 1983 model also, then that's preferred.  Otherwise you'll be missing a few things that pertain to the Voyager because the 82'/83' KZ1300 and Voyager share some items like charging system, ignition pickups, etc.  Maybe some of the very things you're trying to fix.  Without at least the 1982 supplement pages in the back of the base manual, you'll be missing info on these parts.  And absolutely none of the info in the base manual is duplicated in the Voyager supplement manual.   david@kz1300.com

This page is added to on a regular basis in an attempt to answer the most common questions pertaining to the KZ1300 or ZN1300.  Most of this information is good for the Z1300 or ZG1300 models as well.  I don't address those 2 models specifically, because they were never sold into the USA market, and none of us have ever seen these models.

This page is a compilation of 1000's of old questions and answers that were archived off the old tech board that I cut and pasted together.  More recently, member Travis Denardo from Minnesota rewrote the entire FAQ page for us.  A lot of his work is what you see on this FAQ page today.  Back in 2004 he took about 2000 - 3000 posts off the old Tech BB and composed them in a question and answer format to enlarge our FAQ page considerably.  For those of us that work 40 hour weeks, that's at least a full weeks work, maybe more.  I know, I did it the first time, and his work made a vast improvement.  Now I just try to keep it updated week to week.  

Many of the answers on this page were from Paul Bezilla, though most everything on the site has been reworded and put into a Q&A format for better reading.  If any members want to create some material to go on this page I would surely welcome it!  I've gotten requests for installation tips on aftermarket parts like ignition coils, exhaust, air shocks, fork springs, an aftermarket fairing or cracked fairing repair, carb repair, case savers, a radio, CB, or other electrical accessory and so forth.  If any of you install these things on your bike and would like to take pictures of the installation for the benefit of other members,,please write some text to go with the pictures and I'll create a tech page for your info.  Be sure and check the tech articles for more specific tech info also.  

It should go without saying that the info on this site is relevant for the Z1300, ZG1300, KZ1300 or ZN1300 though there are some major differences between the bikes.  In general on this site when I refer to KZ1300 parts, this is more similar to Z1300 parts and not ZG1300 parts or ZN1300 parts which are totally different bikes in most aspects.  The ZG1300 is basically a late model Z1300 with fuel injection and was never imported into the USA.  The things that are different basically pertain to the installation of the fuel injection.  Everything else should be the same.

Disclaimer:  Keep in mind that what's posted here is questions and answers from various members of the club over a long period of time and the answers are not necessarily always going to be 100% accurate or the ONLY solution to the question.  I've read through all of them and some answers are based maybe solely on the basis of one members opinion or experience.  I make no claims as to the accuracy of the answers, rather I ask that if any member notices something that doesn't appear to be stated correctly that they email me so I can add their changes or concerns to the page when I update it.

If you email me asking a question pertaining to our bikes, and it is not already answered here, then I make take your question and my answer and add it to this page.  I don't credit full names in the text unless you ask me to.

If you need parts for your bike, the Links page has the most up to date info available I have for what's available for our bikes on the internet.  I also have a group of parts pages on this site dedicated to parts I have for sale, and I have a select few new parts on those pages plus NOS parts.  You can buy things off ebay.com if you have an ebay account, there's a free Bike or Parts Ads Bulletin Board on this site with available bikes and parts from members, and a Wanted Ads Bulletin Board if you want to place a free wanted ad for something you need.  Start at the site entry page that has all the major site links and bookmark that page.  With all the people shooting home video these days, I did find some good Youtube videos on general bike repair posted here, that might be of some use to some of you.  No doubt if you search the web you'll find more good stuff like this, and if so, please send me the links.  david@kz1300.com

Q:  What are the most common problems I need to be aware of on the 1300?

A:  The number one problem to be sure you repair is the cam chain tensioner or CCT.  This is a known issue that was never resolved by Kawasaki to my knowledge, and can trash your motor in a split second with NO warning.  You may of got a warning in the form of engine noise you didn't recognize, so you didn't know it was the tensioner!   DON'T IGNORE THIS WARNING ON THE TENSIONER UNLESS YOU WANT TO DO A MAJOR, HIGH DOLLAR, TOP END OVERHAUL SOON! 

Read up about how to prevent this problem for cheap on this site, because many members come here  crying after the fact that they talked to their mechanic and he never heard of a problem with the tensioners, so because of that they didn't do anything about it.  Now they have bent valves.  How much does that cost to repair!  Is their mechanic now going to fix their valves for free because he never heard of this problem before?  We've heard of the problem!  We deal with this bike specifically, and have more info on this model than anyone else, so isn't that good enough for you?  You can easily spend $1000 doing that repair with new valves versus a $45 manual tensioner.  Which way would you rather go?  A) the cheap route, fix it before I actually experience the problem, or B) fix it when it fails, and pay the big bucks to your mechanic who has never heard of this issue until your bike comes in for repair!

Hard starting or poor performance can be traced to a number of things, but most notably bad / cracked ignition coils or wires, carburetor problems, and on the 79' and 80' models, a stuck mechanical timing advancer mechanism.  Check these first.  81' and later bikes used electronic advance.  Carburetor problems can be difficult to deal with, or time consuming and expensive if you have to order parts for them, but getting the carbs cleaned properly is usually the main issue here.  Charging problems are common on 79' to 81' models and it should go without saying on a bike this old, you may have bad electrical connections that need some attention.  Here's the first things I recommend:

#1 - Get a manual.  Available on (ebay.com - used) or (repairmanual.net - new)

#2 - See #1.  If you don't have a manual and I refer you to a page in the manual, your response is???

#3 - Look over the manual and at least familiarize yourself with the bike so the both of us can use the same names for the same parts.  Cuts down on confusion.

#4 - Replace the Cam Chain Tensioner before you ever start the motor the first time!  The first time you start the motor, especially after the bike has been sitting a long time, this is frequently when it goes bad and bends your valves.  So you start looking for answers on the net because your motor has a problem, you find this site and now you realize you've already destroyed your motor.  What can I say except, I understand the problem.  But while you're here, check the tech articles for other things you should attend to!

#5 - Absolutely replace your ignition coils with Dyna coils, Nology coils or something that is a definite performance upgrade with a hot spark.  Check the tech articles!

#5a - Update your battery to a high cold cranking amp battery make by Hawker or something comparable.  Check the tech articles!

#6 - While you've got the tank off doing the coils, I'd check a number of things like electrical connections for corrosion, rubber hoses for cracks, vacuum lines for leaks, etc., and especially the brake hoses.  We've got many bikes out there with 25 year old original brake lines or fuel line hoses still fitted.  How dangerous is that?

#7 - Throw fuel solenoid away, but save the wiring harness off of it and send it to me (applies to Z1300's & KZ1300's only).  Replace fuel line if needed or clean carbs, add fuel filter and re-route the fuel line as I show.  I sometimes put insulation over the fuel line to keep the heat off if I suspect vapor lock problems, and clean the gas tank vent.  Upgrade your petcock to a high flow unit made by 'Pingel'.  Check the tech articles!

#8 - Personally, I take some radiant barrier type insulation and insulate the bottom of the tank if it doesn't have factory insulation, because of the possible vapor lock problem Paul mentions.  You can find this stuff in the hardware store for wrapping water heaters with in your home.  It looks like thin  bubble wrap packing material with tin foil affixed to it on both sides.  You can cut it and glue it to the bottom of the tank with automotive weather-strip adhesive or whatever.  There's also a thinner version of this material available that's perforated which works better on the fuel line, but it may be hard to find in stores.  Shop the internet instead for the terms 'radiant barrier' and you should find it.  Check the tech articles!

#9 - Insulate the lower radiator hose by wrapping it with the same radiant barrier and tie wraps, or use some other type of heat shield to keep the radiant heat off of it.  The stuff 'hot rodders' wrap their headers with is also an excellent heat barrier, and good for this application.  This is a must do if you put an aftermarket exhaust on like the DG pipe, because it radiates a lot more heat than the stock pipes and the intense heat coming off the DG can burst the lower hose.  Think of anti-freeze being kind of like gas when it spews out on the exhaust and catches on fire.  Trust me, I experienced this first hand on my black 82' bike shown on my 'original site' page.  I was lucky I had a water hose close by to put the fire out!

#10 - Add a manual fan switch, or change to an 84' and up ZN1300 temperature sensor as mentioned elsewhere on the site, so the fan cuts on at a lower temperature.  Use a ZN1300 #27010-1026 fan temp sensor instead of the KZ1300 model # 27010-1036 and your fan with kick on earlier.

#11 - Cut the connectors out and solder all the wires to and from the voltage regulator.  That goes for all models, even the Voyagers to prevent the stator(s) or voltage regulator(s) from burning up from a bad electrical connection.  This is a known issue on these bikes!

#12 - Service the steering stem and check the swing-arm and wheel bearings.  If you wait until you have noticeable play in the steering stem to service it, it's too late.  You'll get the play out of it, but the adjustment usually won't last long and you'll be putting new bearings in soon anyway.

#13 - Replace the air filter with OEM, or even better a K&N #KA1350 or other washable filter media.  J.C. Whitney among others has a few parts like this for our bikes and they're probably the cheapest around.  I also have custom pod filters now so the air-box can be eliminated entirely on any model 1300, even the Voyagers.

#14 - Open up the front and rear master cylinders, clean the old fluid out and pump new fluid through the brake system and CHECK THE HOSES!  You really don't expect 25 year old brake hoses to still be good do you?  Steel braided lines are available from multiple sources.  Check the links page.

#15 - Timing advancer sticks on the 79' - 80' models and needs to be serviced. 

DON'T break the nylon gear!

Refer to the manual on how to remove it.  Do you know how it sounds to me when someone writes me wanting to buy one of these gears, because they didn't have a manual to refer to so they could see how to get it off without breaking it?  You can get a used manual for $15 - $25 a lot of times on ebay or a new one for $55 - $60, but people break parts that are not replaceable because they're working on their bike without a manual.  I know this is so because people write me from every state in the union and from half way around the world every few months wanting to buy one.  And they don't write me until they've exhausted all other resources and realize they can't find the gear anywhere else.

Half the time I hesitate to even answer their emails because I don't want to hold a conversation with someone that's trying to repair their bike without a manual.  These guys always ask questions that are already answered in the manual or on this site, but they think I should have time to tell them things that I know are already answered in the manual or or prominently displayed on this page or in the tech articles.  That's my clue that they don't have a manual or don't care enough about their problem to read up on it.  I hate to rag on people, especially potential members, but all the information you need to fix your bike is probably either in the manual or available FOR FREE on this site.  There's only a few specific things on the paid member CD's that might pertain to you if you have a Voyager, and most of those manuals you could find if you looked hard enough, or had time to wait until the day maybe they happened to pop up for sale on ebay.

It goes without saying that you need to check brake pads, fluids, cables, tires, replace your antifreeze, synchronize the carb's or whatever, but all this is regular maintenance stuff.  Things like carburetors is where most people get stuck, but I can assure you our carb's are not near as hard to work on as a lot of bikes out there.  Any of you guys ever had to work on a set of CBX carbs?  If you can deal with Hondas' idea of a 6-cylinder bike and service it then ours should be a breeze.  Yeah, parts can be expensive, but keep in mind you bought the 'Rolls Royce' of classic motorcycles.

I go through the things I just mentioned on a bike and that's usually it.  Many times I can put 1000's of miles on a bike and not have any issues at all with it.  The mod's Paul mentioned about the vacuum petcock, fuel pump, and some of those things I've never done, but only because I haven't had any problems that I thought one of those mod's might solve.  There's a lot of electrical related things you can run into on the DFI bikes.  On a Voyager for example, the electrical connections on the back of the main electrical junction box is the first thing I pull off the bike and look at.  The inline fuses coming off the battery are the second thing I pull apart and check.  On a Voyager, there's all kind of things you can run into, the list is endless.  The manual gets very elaborate on tracing down problems, but it's confusing because of the round about way it gives you information with flow charts spread across many pages, without ever telling you what you really want to know.  Still, I guess they did the best they could at that day in time, and you just have to flip back and forth through the pages to figure it out.

I understand that you don't always want to throw a few hundred dollars at a problem not knowing whether that's your real problem or not, or if you could get by without those coils and maybe find something simpler that would fix it for a lot less money.  But look at it this way; we're hundreds or thousands of miles away from you and trying to help you diagnose your problem on a 20+ year old motorcycle that could possibly have any number of oddball problems wrong with it, besides the stuff we already know about and go into great detail about on this site.  We shouldn't have to go around and around with the stuff we already know about.  These mod's should be a given.  

The reason I hardly ever post in the discussion groups is because I see people post with problems all the time that could very well be nothing more than BAD COILS, and they want us to speculate on what it COULD be, but they THINK they're coils are OK because they've checked them.  But you know what; they didn't check their coils when they were broken down on the side of the road with the coils being cooked from the heat coming off that motor while they were sitting at a traffic light.  

If you check them when they're cooler you might think they're OK, but with electrical components it's a known fact they can break down under extremes of heat and can appear to work just fine otherwise.  The only thing I'd prefer to hear about coils from here on out is that I replaced the coils; I checked my electrical connections; I eliminated fuel delivery as a possible contributing factor; and those things didn't make any real difference.  Rarely do we have an email from someone with a problem who's already covered all the preventive mod's and they still have an issue with their bike.  No..., these guys are out riding and if they have a problem they've already narrowed it down through the process of elimination.  It's going to be something like a bad ignition pick-up coil.  Or they're pulling their carburetors apart and doing a better job cleaning the crud out, or whatever.  But they've probably got some good ideas on how to fix it or what they should check next.

So, maybe it's bad coils and maybe it's not.  Maybe you have a carb problem, fuel delivery problem, vapor lock, or any one of a number of other things, but all these things are covered in detail on this site.  If I could ride your bike I might have a little better feel for just what's wrong, but we can't do that so you're going to have to take our free advice and act on it because it's still a heck of a lot cheaper than paying a local bike mechanic to figure it out, assuming you can find anyone willing to work on the bike.  Much less someone that's actually worked on one before... more than once.  I've seen blockage in the fuel rail between the carbs where 2 carbs were getting plenty of fuel, but the right side carb was starving for fuel.  It's an old bike.  Expect the unexpected.  I mentioned this to someone else and sure enough, they found the same problem with theirs.  It was some trash in behind the needle and valve seat on that specific carb.  Read below for common ways to repair these problems and more.  

Common Problems

• Cam chain tensioner

• Coils

• Charging

• Carburetor

• Overheating

Getting Started

• Hard Start

• No Start

Electrical

• Charging

• Lighting

• Plugs

• Wiring

• Ignition

• Coils

• Alternator

• Battery

Carburetor

• Jets

• Air Filter

• Mechanical

• Fuel

• Injectors

• Fuel Pump

Engine

• Oil

• Cam chain tensioner

• Valves

• Fuel

• Clutch

• Cooling

• Starter

• Timing

• Performance

• Gaskets

Chassis

• Forks

• Shocks

• Tires

• Exhaust

• Tank

• Petcock

• Radiator

• Lighting

• Fairing

• Dash

Tranny

• General

Modifications

• All

Noise

• General

Q:  What options do I have to remedy the cam chain tensioner problem on the 1300’s I've heard so much about?

A:  I have a whole page dedicated to dealing with the CCT problem posted at - 

http://www.kz1300.com/techarticles/z1300-cam-chain-tensioner.html

I don't sell tensioners by the way.  The part numbers are listed on the page.  Go to Kawasaki and order the ZX-11 tensioner if that's the one you want, or you can order OEM parts online these days through the many links I show on this page or the links page.  You can also modify your stock one, or buy the APE style off the web or from your local motorcycle store.  There's a reason I mention the CCT as the very first thing on this page!  Take heed lest you turn your motor into a boat anchor.  This advice applies to ALL Kawasaki 1300's, Z1300, KZ1300, ZN1300 & ZG1300 ALL YEARS ALL MODELS!  Even the Voyagers that have the little oil line going into the end of the tensioner.  JUST DO IT and then there's no more worry about this potential problem.  Besides, it's a cheap fix either way you go compared to what happens if you don't, which is bent valves!   david@kz1300.com

Q:  I recently purchased the new cam chain tensioner you recommended how ever I have a question; there is a arrow on the tensioner does this point up or down?

 A:  You want to install the tensioner with the arrow as close to "UP' as you can make it.  Thinking of the gas tank being North and the ground being South, the arrow will point to the northeast position when installed.

This is most important!!  When you put the ZX-11 tensioner in, count the number of clicks the plunger went down before it stopped.  The Cam Chain rides over a nylon idler gear on the back side and these gears tend to disintegrate with age. You can pull the valve cover and look at the gear, (good time to adjust the valves) or another way to tell is to pull the tensioner back out if you've already installed it, depress the plunger, reinstall it and slip a small allen wrench in the hole and depress the plunger slowly and count the number clicks till it stops.  

It should click 19 - 20 times total if you extend it while it's out of the bike.  If you put it in and it goes more than about 10 to 12 clicks and there's 19 total clicks it could go, then your gear or the tensioner sliders are worn too far and you need immediate repair.  Do not start the motor!  It should really only go down about 3 - 5 clicks or less if it's in excellent condition.  I put one in that had a new idler gear and it only depressed one click!   

There's also a plastic or nylon plain roller on the bottom side of the tensioner assembly that needs to be looked at.  You may need to put in a new gear and a roller.  Order these parts from Kawasaki.  The head has to come off to put these parts in!   Here again, Kawasaki gaskets are preferred although others are available.  Check the links page for aftermarket gaskets.

Kawasaki Part # 12048-1113 Tensioner Assy, Part # 11009-1858 Tensioner Gasket is the ZX-11 parts if you want to go this way, or there are other options mentioned in the tech articles.

To check the valve timing do the following:
1.  Pull right side alternator cover and valve cover.
2.  On the circumference of the right side alternator you will find 3 marks.  1 mark has a T beside it, another mark has a 1 and the 3rd mark has a 2 beside it.  The T mark is top dead center on #1 and #6 cylinder. 
3.  Using the bolt on the alternator turn the engine clockwise only till the T mark is just at the crankcase break between the top half and bottom half at the front of the crankcase.  This would be about 90 degrees forward.  This lines up the crankshaft at top dead center.
4.  Look at the timing marks on the cams.  The exhaust cam (the one toward the front of the engine has 2 marks. If the exhaust cam (and the engine is on #1) will have the mark just at or slightly below the surface of the mating of the valve cover.  If the mark is nowhere near the try turning the crankshaft till the next time the T is at the mating surface or top dead center.  Then look at the marks.  Is the front mark at the mating surface or below the mating surface where the valve cover fits at the front?  If slightly above then this cam is retarded.  This cam must be correct before continuing. 
5.  After the exhaust cam is correct then look at the intake cam.  On the exhaust cam looking straight up you will find another timing mark.  This mark should be exactly straight up or just slightly in front of that.  The matching mark on the intake cam should be in exactly the same position.  There is a link count but I do not have that at this time.  Just remember it must be exactly like the exhaust cam. 
Now the cams are correct.  Larry C. 

Q:  Several members said they were indexing the cam for best performance.  But the cam sprockets are part of the cams.  How are you changing the relationship between cam and crank?

A:  Do you have a degree wheel and know how to use it?  Without a degree wheel, you turn the crankshaft forward by the crank bolt.  There is a T, 1, 2 on the circumference of the right side
alternator.  If you stop turning the crank when the T just gets to the split in the upper and lower case split at the front.  Then look at the indexing of the exhaust cam.  There should be an 'O' at the front side of the cam.  This 'O' should be just below the surface that the valve cover gasket seats against.  If above then you have to move the cam 1 tooth forward to make it so.  Then count the teeth from the 'O' on the top of the exhaust cam to the 'O' on the top of the intake cam.  There should be exactly on the 17th link.  That is a full link.  That is how I remember. The book says to do the 'O' on the exhaust cam like is said but then count 17 links from that 'O' to the 'O' on the top if the intake cam.  Then check the 'O' that should be at the back of the head and it should be just above the valve cover mating surface. 

Make sure to remove the CCT when pulling and moving cams and back in and snug when turning the crank and checking the 'O'.  I do remember that the T on the alternator circumference should not be
past the mating joint and the 'O' on the cams should be toward the forward slightly (like about 1/8") below on the exhaust and above on the intake cam to be correctly timed.  When you move the cam forward 1 tooth that = 20 degrees.  To be by the book correctly timed, the T is at the case split like I said.  And the 'O' should be exactly on the mating surface of the valve cover.  But you should never run the cams retarded even slightly.  If you have to be off, be off slightly advanced.  A racer will
advance a cam usually about 4 - 6 degrees to gain the maximum anyway.  

Remember the cam timing comes from the auxiliary shaft not the crankshaft.  The auxiliary shaft is driven through a chain that stretches over time.  If you have some miles on the bike, this chain will stretch enough to make cam timing retarded as much as 12 degrees or even possibly more.  I saw like 6 degrees retardation at 30,000 miles and 6 degrees retarded will make the engine run sluggish and run hotter.  The engine will be more peppy and run cooler when advanced.  Although, I really would not want an engine running 14 degrees advanced because that is really too much, the engine will perform better and run cooler that much advanced as opposed to 6 degrees retarded.  

If you use a degree wheel, you will be able to measure the exact cam timing and see what I am talking about.  This timing change does not affect the ignition timing.  Ignition timing comes from the right side of the engine on Voyagers and on older KZ models from a separate chain from the auxiliary shaft.  The ignition will retard on the KZ and must be retimed to the crank T mark to be correct, and using the F mark in the dist.  Again If you have a choice, you want to advance the ignition timing by about 2 degrees.  The F mark in the dist is the factory offset of 10 degrees.  Does this help?  I hope so and I hope you are not too confused by my very long dissertation.  Larry C.

Q:  In my continuing quest to unscrew an 86 Voyager I need to time the valves.  The P.O. had dropped a nut down the tunnel and the motor wouldn't turn.  It required my removing the cams, oil pan and head to finally find and extract the little bugger.  I am now in the putting it back together phase and need to time the valves.  My understanding is that Voyager valves are timed differently from a KZ1300, however my Voyager supplement manual does not mention anything to this effect. 
Can anyone help here?  Are they timed the same as a KZ1300?   Colin C.

A:  The easiest way is to remove the right side alternator cover.  Just remove the allen head bolts and the two bolts that hold the cover over the wiring on the bottom and pull it outward.  No need to 
totally remove it.  At the 12 o'clock position, you'll see a little bitty mark on the pickup holding ring that you will align the "T" mark on the rotor with.  This will get #1&6 piston at TDC.  

Pull the cam chain taut on the front side, slip the exhaust camshaft through the chain and set the cam in place.  There's a little hole on the camshaft gear that goes forward, lining up with the top surface of 
the head.  Be aware that as you tighten the camshaft down, the cam will go down, making the hole move upward.  In other words, when you first line up the cam and chain, have the hole pointing downward just a bit.  Get it tightened down and then could back 17 links and align that link up with the front hole in the cam gear.  It has two holes, the front one will point up and the other will point backwards, lining up evenly with the top of the head on the back side. 

You'll have to take apart and compress the cam chain tensioner and lock it down with the set screw.  Insert it, tighten the tensioner down and then release the set screw.  Crank the engine over a few 
times with a wrench on the alternator rotor and then line up the T mark again and check the cam gear holes to make sure they're where they are supposed to be.

Oh, I made a cam chain hole plug using the pattern in the back of the shop manual.  I used a piece of material similar to a thin truck flap to make it.  It was from a brake cylinder attenuator shield on a Dodge Caravan.  After hearing of some other people's problems, I sure didn't want that.  If nothing else, stuff the hole full of clean shop rags when you change shims.  John

Q:  After having had my Cam Chain Tensioner out to inspect it, I tried to put it back in but it just won't go in.  I've reset the arm all the way back in the housing and tightened the setscrew (bolt) to keep it full retracted, but it still won't go in anywhere near where I can start the bolts through the housing into the engine.

When I stick my little finger in the hole, I feel a slightly curved piece of metal covering the top half of the inside of the CCT hole and its fairly snug up against the casing.  Below it, and further into the engine, I can feel what seems like a roller of some type.  This curved piece of metal, with some effort can be pushed up and inwards but maybe only an eighth or a quarter of an inch.  It returns to its former position when I remove pressure from it.  It is this obstruction that is preventing the CCT from going into its mounting hole.  Any idea what it might be and what I might do to get my CCT back in?

A:  This rarely happens when you pull a CCT out, but what you are feeling is the insides to the CCT.  Apparently the cams have rotated slightly putting the slack to the front of the engine instead of the rear.  Do not, I repeat, do not try to rotate the engine with the CCT out.  The cam chain will jump.  Pull the coils and valve cover and inspect.  Can you see where the slack is?  Try to rotate gently the exhaust toward the rear.  Did you get slack in the cam chain across the top of the engine?  If yes then the slack was in front of the engine.  Now keeping the slack on top of the engine gently turn the intake cam toward the rear.  Now you can install the CCT.  Holding the slack to the rear of the engine let the push rod on the CCT take up the slack.  If everything works out right you will now be able to start and run the engine after putting the valve cover and coils back on. 

Do not let the chain jump over the teeth on the cams.  If you have any questions about the cams jumping time, then pull both cams keeping the cam chain tight on the lower shaft.  Pull the alternator. keeping the cam chain tight turn the crank clockwise from the alternator side of the engine (right side of the bike) till the T is exactly centered at the front of the engine on the upper and lower block mating surface.  Now install the exhaust cam with the dot (there are 2 dots I believe so use the farthest clockwise dot from the right side of the engine) at or just slightly below the mating surface where the valve cover and head mate.  Now install the intake cam with the dot at or just above the mating
surface at the rear side of the cam.  Double check.  Make no mistakes.  Do you have the book?  Look at the book pictures.  Now install the CCT and adjust tight.  Reassemble and run.  
Larry C.

Q:  I just bought an 81' KZ1300, and reading your recommendation I have a question with the chain tensioner.  Which year of ZX1100 should I buy and what do you think about the manual tensioner from Klasmo?  Thank you in advance and congrats on your website.  My best regards, JC 

A:  Don't know the year but the part #'s are posted -
http://www.kz1300.com/techarticles/z1300-cam-chain-tensioner.html

ZX-11 tensioner - Part # 12048-1113, Tensioner gasket - Part # 11009-1858.  A manual tensioner will have to be adjusted by YOU!  A ZX-11 tensioner adjusts automatically as parts wear, it adjusts in real time and always by the correct amount of adjustment.  Even if there is some difference in price, you'll have to decide which you prefer.  However, consider this:

If you read my tech article on the ZX-11 Cam Chain Tensioner Mod, I mention that when you put these in you should count how many clicks it goes down before it stops.  If you use the ZX11 tensioner instead of a modified original tensioner or the APE manual style tensioner the added benefit is that you can get a pretty good idea of the condition of your CCT idler gear without having to take the valve cover off.

Just recently I installed a ZX11 tensioner on a motor that had a new idler gear on it and the tensioner only extended one click.  I had put one of these on another motor and it went all the way down 19 clicks.  When I pulled the valve cover on that motor the idler gear was down to the metal bearing.  If it had worn any more, it would of eventually split the bearing cover and spit out the needle bearings all inside the motor.  No telling what that would do but it's all bad!

Judging by the different motors I've put these ZX11 tensioners on I'd say if you put one in and it extends a couple of clicks your idler gear is like new.  If it goes 3 - 5 clicks you have minor wear, 5 - 8 clicks you should be right at what you should consider to be replacement time, 10 clicks for sure it's time, but you might can put a few more miles on it if you need to, and over 10 you're asking for trouble.  This is a best guess from my experience as I've test run quite a few of these engines and I always change the tensioner before I crank it up. 

If you have a ZX11 tensioner and it's been on awhile and you want to get a feel for what condition your idler gear is in now, this is simple.  Just pull the tensioner back out, compress the plunger, reinstall it and count the # of clicks as you reach in and depress the plunger.  Now you know approximately how much wear there is on it and you don't have to pull the valve cover to find out. 

However, if you're going to pull the valve cover and set your valves, this is the best time to look in and see what the idler gear looks like.  I have pictures of a new gear in the article and a moderately worn gear (probably 5 - 7 clicks at the stage of wear you see in that image) and if yours is much worse the head needs to come off to replace the gear. 

If you're setting your valves this is also the time to check your nylon water pump gear too.  The nylon water pump gear rides against a metal gear on the end of the water pump shaft and you can see it down below the idler gear.  The nylon water pump gear tends to crack between the teeth.  You slowly turn the crankshaft with a wrench while you shine a light on that gear and check it all the way around.  If your eyes aren't too good, here's a trick assuming you have a digital camera with a good LCD viewing screen.  I place a light on the gear and zoom in with the camera and I get a close up view of the gear on the screen.  I can take snapshots at short intervals or even a short digital movie while I slowly turn the crank (assuming yours will record a short movie).  Works like a charm.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  Can anyone tell me which color wires feed which coils for the relevant cylinders?

Whatever you do with the coils the total resistance at the end of the day must be same as what you started out with.  If your total resistance (coils + ballast resistor) is 2.5 ohm then you should replace with 2.5 ohm coils and bypass the ballast resistor (which is approximately 1.7 Ohm and plenty WATTS).  The reason this gives better spark is that you lose almost half your voltage in the ballast resistor!  Replacing it with a 2.5 ohm coil means the coil get all the voltage your CDI is putting out and gives better spark.  The CDI is expecting approximately 2.7 to 3.0 ohms so make sure it doesn't change. 
 
: some calcs : 12v and 2.5ohm = 4.8 amps (Normal) 
: 12v and 3.5ohm = 3.4 amps (weak spark) 
: 12v and 1.5ohm = 8 amps = fried CDI unit, but good spark while it lasts ;-) 

There really is no risk because that CDI is still reacting to the same resistance it always has and doesn't really care whether it comes from a combination of resistors and coils or just one coil.  I cannot say for certain what may happen with a 3+ ohm coil, but suffice it to say the higher you get the less spark output.  Your other options are to buy aftermarket coils from Dyna, Nology coils, or some other high performance coil with the appropriate ohm rating.  The Accel coils are much more costly at about $80 to $120 apiece; the Dyna’s about $70 each, Nology's about $75+ each (posted prices on the net as of 11/2004).  You can check the Accel installation page for more info at -  http://accel.zn1300.com/  

Update!  Until 2005 I didn't have any problems with Accel coils, but read the Accel page for current info about Accel's ohm readings measuring too high!  Not a good coil for us anymore!

Q:  What is the replacement Accel coil part numbers for the 1980 KZ1300B2?

A:  Accel part #'s are 140403 (2 coils) & 140403S (Single coil).  The same coil for all year model KZ1300, Z1300, ZN1300, ZG1300 and Voyager 1300's.  All year 1300's use the same Accel coil.  On the older bikes (83' KZ1300's or older) with the original 1.5 ohm coils and ballast resistor, you simply pull the ballast off, toss it in the trash and install the coils without a ballast.  On the newer year model bikes that came with 2.5 ohm coils and without the ballast, you simply mount the coils and ride.  It's that simple.  I even have a page that shows you how at - accel.zn1300.com but here again, I do not recommend Accels at this time unless you can confirm that they do indeed measure 3.0 ohms when they're hot.

Measure them cold, then get them over some heat source and warm them up just like they would be cooking over a hot engine.  Test again.  If the ohm reading didn't change more than .1 or maybe .2 ohms, then it should be OK to use them.  I guess any coil may change a little bit when it's hot.  I'm not an expert on electronics.  david@kz1300.com

Q:   I have read the coil section on the FAQ and I have a manual.  I'm thinking of changing to DYNA coils, but in the UK, the only ones I can get are the DC4-1 coils rated at 2.2ohm.  The section states I have to have 2.5+ ohm total.  If I fit the 2.2ohm coils with the ballast resistor removed, will this fry my ignition system?  I have the 81' model with the one year only ignition system.  The reason I ask this is -

1. the coils are expensive and cannot be changed once I have bought them.
2. if I fry my ignition system, I wont be able to get a spare one.  Any thoughts on this before I purchase the Dyna's?  IAN

A: If you read the FAQ above then you saw this -

: some calcs : 12v and 2.5ohm = 4.8 amps (Normal) 
: 12v and 3.5ohm = 3.4 amps (weak spark) 
: 12v and 1.5ohm = 8 amps = fried CDI unit, but good spark while it lasts ;-) 

You can see that the higher the ohm coils you have the less amperage they pull through your igniter, so it appears that the 3 ohm coils put less load on it.  Dyna makes a 3 ohm coil as does Nology (2.7 ohm) and I've used the 3 ohm Accel's successfully for over 20 years as have many other members until 2005.  Why don't you buy the Nology or Dyna coils from the US and just have them shipped over there.  Wouldn't that be cheaper?  There's sources listed for Nology or Dyna coils below and on the links page - http://www.kz1300.com/linkspage.html 

If you want to use the Dyna coils, here's what Dyna recommended in an email to one member:

"Please note that we would recommend the DC4-1 coils, with a primary resistance of 2.2 and the secondary at 14K, this looks like a perfect fit for the specs you gave us.  The Plug wires we would recommend with them are the DW800 x 2.  They have a suggested retail price of $23."

http://www.dynaonline.com/english/coils.htm

So, they recommend 2.2 ohm coils instead of the 3.0 ohm in this email.  One reason I can guess at for this is because I've measured various coils and found that they tend to read a little higher than what they're rated at.  If you purchase their 2.2 ohm coils and measure them you might find that they measure somewhere between 2.5 - 2.7 ohms.  From experience, I'd say the same goes with the Accel so the decision is up to you, but if you look at the install sheets they provide with the Dyna 2000 Ignition I have on my site it says they provide the DC3-1 style 3.0 ohm coils with that kit.  Hard to say which is the better choice without measuring the resistance but 3 ohm would be better than 2.2 as 2.2 ohms is a little shy of what our bikes call for and could strain the igniter.

Though Accel's are still readily available from many sources, I've been informed that Accel quit making the 140403 coil a few years ago.  I've been measuring the ones I've gotten lately and some have been  measuring out over 4.0 ohms!  I'll be getting away from Accel's myself and switching to the Dyna coils as mentioned above, the Nology's, Screaming Eagles or the GM coil pack as mentioned next.  It would be better if we could find a coil pack for a V6 car with 2.5 ohm coils, but I've searched the internet and couldn't find any that have that high of resistance.  All of the one's I've found so far measure under 1.0 ohm.  However, if you measure them with the ballast in the circuit and end up with something around 2.7 - 3.0 ohms this is the preferred range to be in.  david@kz1300.com

You can purchase the Dyna's on the Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse website for $113.95 in pairs (2 coil sets as of 2004).  david@kz1300.com  

See -  http://www.mawonline.com/dyna.htm#Coils

or Motorcycle Performance Specialties- For $111.60

See -  http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Dyna/ig01aa.asp 

A:  I read about Bob's coil install on the Canada site.  I did some research and found the 1990 Buick Reatta and Regal and others have the coils he described.  Part # Niehoff  PT223, CSK Skucks auto # DR185.  This coil seems to work great and measures 1.2 ohms so you have to keep the original ballast resistor from your KZ or add a 1.5+ ohm ballast resistor to it if you're going to use it on a newer 1300 that came with 2.5 ohm coils.  I have about 200 miles on it now with Accel spiral race wires and my 82' KZ1300 runs better than it ever has with cleaner exhaust smell and sharper response.  James Inman in Alaska 

A:  I found an interchange list on ebay for the 1990-96 Buick Regal Coil (6-191) for all those 1300 owners that want to try this mod.  david@kz1300.com

Interchange Info: Brand / Part# / OEM or Aftermarket Type

AC / DELCO / GM - #12353801 - OEM
AC / DELCO / GM - #25518356 - OEM
AC / DELCO / GM - #25523221 - OEM
AC / DELCO / GM - #25526448 - OEM
AC / DELCO / GM - #25533542 - OEM
AC / DELCO / GM - #D538 - OEM
AC / DELCO / GM - #D543 - OEM
AC / DELCO / GM - #D552 - OEM
AIRTEX - #5C1061 - aftermarket
BIG A - #35-701 - aftermarket
BORG WARNER - #E45 - aftermarket
CARTER - #504-001 - aftermarket
COBRA - #DC-62B - aftermarket
ECHLIN - #IC28 - aftermarket
ETRON - #D543 - aftermarket
FILKO - #DC-62 - aftermarket
GP/SORENSEN - #GC412 - aftermarket
KEM - #342H - aftermarket
MIGHTY - #3-508 - aftermarket
NAPA - #IC28 - aftermarket
NIEHOFF - #DR185 - aftermarket
SIERRA - #18-5439 - aftermarket
SORENSEN - #DE-82 - aftermarket
STANDARD / HYGRADE - #DR-36 - aftermarket
WELLS - #C860 - aftermarket

Fits Cars:
6000 87-89 6-173 (2.8L)
6000 88-91 6-191 (3.1L)
ACHIEVA 94-98 6-191 (3.1L)
ALERO 99-02 3.4L
AZTEK 01-02 (3.4L)
BERETTA 87-89 6-173 (2.8L)
BERETTA 90-96 6-191 (3.1L)
CAMARO 93-95 6-207 (3.4L)
CAVALIER 87-89 6-173 (2.8L)
CAVALIER 90-94 6-191 (3.1L)
CELEBRITY 87-89 6-173 (2.8L)
CELEBRITY 90 6-191 (3.1L)
CENTURY 87-89 6-173 (2.8L)
CENTURY 94-96 6-191 (3.1L)
CENTURY 97-02 (6-191, 3.1L)
CIERA 87-89 6-173 (2.8L)
CIERA 94-96 6-191 (3.1L)
CIMARRON 87-88
CORSICA 87-89 6-173 (2.8L)
CORSICA 90-96 6-191 (3.1L)
CUTLASS 88 (6-173, 2.8L)
CUTLASS 89 6-173 (2.8L)
CUTLASS 89-92 6-191 (3.1L)
CUTLASS 91-96 6-207 (3.4L)
CUTLASS 93 6-191 (3.1L), eng VIN "M"
CUTLASS 93 6-191 (3.1L), eng VIN "T"
CUTLASS 94-96 6-191 (3.1L)
CUTLASS 97-99 (6-191, 3.1L)
FIREBIRD 93-95 6-207 (3.4L)
FIRENZA 87 6-173 (2.8L)
GRAND AM 94-98 6-191 (3.1L)
GRAND AM 99-02 3.4L
GRAND PRIX 88-89
GRAND PRIX 90-93 6-191 (3.1L)
GRAND PRIX 91-93 6-207 (3.4L)
GRAND PRIX 94-95
GRAND PRIX 96 6-207 (3.4L)
GRAND PRIX 96-02 6-191 (3.1L)
IMPALA 00-02 3.4L
LUMINA CAR 90 6-191 (3.1L)
LUMINA CAR 91-93 6-191 (3.1L)
w/o methanol fuel
LUMINA CAR 91-93 6-207 (3.4L)
LUMINA CAR 94-95
LUMINA CAR 96-97 6-207 (3.4L)
LUMINA CAR 96-99 6-191 (3.1L)
LUMINA CAR 00-01 (3.1L)
LUMINA VAN 96 (6-207, 3.4L)
MALIBU 97-99 6-191 (3.1L)
MALIBU 00-02 (3.1L)
MONTANA 99-02 (6-207, 3.4L)
MONTE CARLO 95
MONTE CARLO 96-97 6-207 (3.4L)
MONTE CARLO 96-99 6-191 (3.1L)
MONTE CARLO 00-02 3.4L
PASSPORT 94-95 3.2L (6 cyl)
REGAL 88-89
REGAL 90-96 6-191 (3.1L)
RENDEZVOUS 02 (3.4L)
ISUZU RODEO 93-95 3.2L (6 cyl)
SILHOUETTE 96-02 (6-207, 3.4L)
SKYLARK 94-98 6-191 (3.1L)
SUNBIRD 91-94 6-191 (3.1L)
TEMPEST 87-89 6-173 (2.8L)
TEMPEST 90-93 6-191 (3.1L)
TRANS SPORT 96-98 (6-207, 3.4L)
TRANS SPORT 99-00 (Canada, 6-207, 3.4L)
ISUZU TROOPER 92-95
VENTURE 97-02 (6-207, 3.4L)

Warning! As of 3/05, another member has purchased these coils and said they measure .9 ohms, not 1.2 as stated here!  Just make sure your total ohms with the ballast is between 2.7 - 3.2 ohms and preferably 2.7 - 3.0!

A:  Hi Dave, I have done the coil swap that Bob describes on my KZ and its right on, works great.  I did use the original ballast and my set measured .7 ohms but the only problem is the seat won't close.  Ended up putting the coils in the fairing.  Jim M.  5/05

Q:  If you look up the user name of  jm2564  on ebay he has or will list for you the Buick coil pack you have listed on the site for $25 plus shipping and they are brand new.  Here's the auction text:

"New GM / Magnavox Style 6-Tower Ignition Coil.  Authentic GM Replacement Coil In A Sealed Carton.  Fits Many GM Vehicles.  Fits Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac 1986-1992.  Unit is equal to (Wells Mfg C860).  Other matching part numbers include (12353801, 24502008, 24502371, 25518356, 25523221, 25526448, 25533542, D538, D543 & D552).  One Year Replacement Warranty. Priced to Sell!  Get Them While They Last!"    Kevin W.

A:  Yeah I've seen these, but .76 ohms at the high end plus the stock 1.7 ohm ballast only equals 2.45 ohms.  That's not enough.  We'd like to see 2.7 minimum because any less strains the igniter.  How many ohms did yours measure through the ballast and through the coil?  This is most important unless you don't care if you burn up your igniter.  I also see a seller with an AC-Delco part# D552 for $50 and $15 shipping and he says it retails new for "$115.00 IN YOUR DISCOUNT STORE".  He's listing this part specifically for the KZ1300 and Voyager and states: "If your KZ1300 has a ballast resistor, keep it connected to this coil or you will blow out the ignition system.  If you have a VOYAGER, then be sure to install a ballast resistor before using this coil."  His ID is z11pacer and I see others selling the same part on ebay (12/07) from about $40 to $60.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  I get 3.4 ohms total on the primary measuring through the ballast.  Kevin W.

A:  We're shooting for 2.7 ohms - 3.0 ohms on the primary including the ballast if it's needed.  Any less than about 2.7 will overload the igniter, and too much will drop the spark output.  Although I doubt a slightly high ohm rating like that will give the igniter any problems.  The coil you're using is rated at 34,000 volts.  You're getting only 20KV maybe because the 3.4 ohms is too high on the primary side and the igniter is changing the dwell or something to compensate?  I'm just guessing.  If you can get a ballast that will drop that by one ohm into the 2.5 to 2.7 range I'm betting the output will jump some and it would be real nice to know by how much.  I noticed that most of these coil packs were in the .7 to .9 range on the primary.  If we can get a 1.7 - 1.9 ohm ballast we should be able to use any of these coil packs with good results since that should put us in the 2.5 - 2.8 range and that's right at the minimum of what our igniter was designed for.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  First let me say your site and info has been very helpful.  I recently purchased a 1980 KZ1300
I noticed in your articles on the site that you stated that someone used a GM coil from a 6cyl to run their bike.  I was wondering if there is a wiring diagram for this conversion as the bike I have has bad wires, and cracked coils.  The guy I bought the bike from gave me the GM coil new in the box, same part number as you have listed.  But was wondering what or how should I convert the coil feeds or wires over.  Any info would be greatly appreciated as I am looking forward to finally get to ride this bike.   Thanks Coy

A:  On the tech articles page - http://www.kz1300.com/tech.html  you'll see a tech article on it and that's all the info I have except what's posted above.  Make sure you have 2.7 - 3.0 ohms with the ballast, or without - whatever works.  I've heard all different ohm readings from different people, but I've looked at the listings on ebay and they typically say .7 to .9 ohms on these coil packs.  At .7 ohms your ballast would have to read 1.8 ohms to equal a minimum of 2.5 and I doubt it going to read that high.  2.5 ohms is the absolute bare minimum as 3.0 ohms is closer to stock, so the lower you go on the ohm readings the more chance you take in burning the igniter up.  There is some variance in the original parts and 2.7 - 3.0 ohms would be the preferred range to be in.   david@kz1300.com

Q: Why do you feel that it's better to use the Nology's or Dyna's over the newer model Kawasaki coils off a Voyager or other model Kawasaki that are a direct bolt-on?

A:  The 84' - 89' ZN1300's have what I would consider to be a better coil than the OEM KZ1300 since you can replace the wires on the Voyager coils, but the coils still crack with age the same as the older Kawasaki coils, they're just as likely to break down when they're hot as the older ones, and they don't have anywhere near the secondary spark output of the Nology or Dyna coil.  New high performance coils are the 2nd most important preventive maintenance / performance enhancement modification you can do to this bike.  They're very reasonable new either from Dyna or Nology and you can buy Nology's or Dyna's for a better price a lot of times when you can find them up for auction on ebay.  

And even if the original coils on your bike worked perfectly, I'd still toss them!  Why?  Because I can just about assure you you'll be able to tell right off that the bike responds much better and gets better gas mileage with the higher performance coils on it.  It's a high performance engine, but the original style coils and even the newer stock Kawasaki coils are marginal in my opinion.  If that's not true, then why do the Nology or Dyna coils make such a noticeable performance improvement over 'good' coils when I put them on, and improve the gas mileage too?  I don't even check the original coils anymore, I just trash them, period.  

That might not seem prudent for some of you, but I run my bike hard.  I'll get by with good coils as long as I have to, but the minute I get the money together for a set of coils I'm going to put them on.  I don't want to be sitting at a light somewhere for 30 minutes waiting to crank my bike because it stalled, or at a gas station after a fill-up and not being able to start it back up.  I can assure you my wife won't put up with that but once.  If the bike breaks and has to be hauled home she'll understand, but she's not going with me if the bike's just going to die whenever it feels like it.  She'd rather stay at home till it's fixed.  

If I was a bike mechanic and was use to taking my bike apart and knew just what to check when I had a problem, I might feel like I could live with regular coils on my bike.  I might feel confident I could isolate that problem the day it manifested itself, but I'm not, I don't, I just eliminate the problem and then I don't ever have that problem.  So when I have a problem, I know it's not coils, it's something else.  

When it comes to state of the art plug wires, I found some interesting technology available around the first of 2005 from Nology.  Here's what their website says - http://www.nology.com/hot.html

"Nology HotWires are the most technologically advanced ignition wires available.  HotWires create the most powerful spark possible.  HotWires are engineered with a special built-in capacitor, exclusive only to HotWires.  This revolutionary design allows energy from the ignition coil to accumulate in the capacitor until the voltage at the spark plug electrodes reaches the ionization point.  At that split second point the entire power of the stored spark is discharged at once, creating a spark 300 times more powerful.  The result is faster, more complete combustion, and most importantly, MORE HORSEPOWER that's 100%. Smog Legal.  US Patent #: 6,559,376.  Hotwires are available in Red, Black, Blue, Yellow, Orange, Purple & Silver.

Motorcycle - 2 Cylinder from $72, 4 Cylinder from $144" - I bought 6 individual wires since they don't sell a set for a 6 cylinder bike.  Nology part# 012-001-301.  I paid about $225 for 6 wires.  

They also have a neat diagnostic tool called a PDA-Dyno™.  They say the Nology Scan Tool Works On Everything: CAN, VPW, PWM, ISO, EU-OBD II and KWP2000 communication protocols.  I don't know if any of this applies to bikes, but it may work on some of the newer ones. 

They do sell a 3.0 ohm dual tower 'ProFire' coil that should be a good replacement for the Accel, part number: PFC-30-D or PFC 30D as it's shown on some sites, that claims a spark voltage in excess of 55,000 volts when used with their Hotwires!  They say with electronic ignition the actual output is 2.4 ohms.  It gives you all the information about their products in a pdf file including their Hotwires and silver electrode spark plugs.  The only issue with these is whether they can take the heat our motors put out.  Nology is not sure whether they can or not.  I've already installed the Nology coils and their Hotwires on a B2 model as of 3/05 and a ZN1300 Voyager as of 10/05 so if I have a problem I'll update the Nology page.  We could always relocate these coils but some people aren't going to want to do that and I understand.  I mounted these in the original locations so we'll give them the acid test.

I see JC Whitney sells Nology products and their 'ProFire' dual tower coils sell for $77 though they only show a fitment table for Harley motorcycles, the Hotwires sell for $180 typically for cars and the plugs list for $8 each.  Click this link to find a lot of ebay sellers offering Nology products also.  Here's the ebay seller I bought 3 from around Feb/2006 for $73 each and only $5 shipping, ebay ID = houseofpimps, MARKHIRSCH@COMCAST.NET,  their website twinthundermotors.com and phone (310) 558-8247.   david@kz1300.com

A:  To be fair, here is a comment posted on the Magnecor site about capacitor effect wires similar to what Nology sells:

"CAPACITOR" EFFECT WIRES with grounded metal braiding over jacket - 

The most notable of exaggerated claims for ignition wires are made by Nology, a recent manufacturer of ignition wires promoted as "the only spark plug wires with built-in capacitor."  Nology's "HotWires" (called "Plasma Leads" in the UK) consist of unsuppressed solid metal or spiral conductor ignition wires over which braided metal sleeves are partially fitted.  The braided metal sleeves are grounded via straps formed from part of the braiding.  Insulating covers are fitted over the braided metal sleeves.  These wires are well constructed.  For whatever reason, Nology specifies that non-resistor spark plugs need to be used with their "HotWires."  In a demonstration, the use of resistor plugs nullifies the visual effect of the brighter spark.

Ignition wires with grounded braided metal sleeves over the cable have come and gone all over the world for (at least) the last 30 years, and similar wires were used over 20 years ago by a few car makers to solve cross-firing problems on early fuel injected engines and RFI problems on fiberglass bodied cars — only to find other problems were created.  The recent Circle Track Magazine (USA, May, 1996 issue) test showed Nology "HotWires" produced no additional horsepower (the test actually showed a 10 horsepower decrease when compared to stock carbon conductor wires).

The perceived effect a brighter spark, conducted by an ignition wire, encased or partially encased in a braided metal sleeve (shield) grounded to the engine, jumping across a huge free-air gap (which bears no relationship to the spark needed to fire the variable air/fuel mixture under pressure in a combustion chamber) is continually being re-discovered and cleverly demonstrated by marketers who convince themselves there's monetary value in such a bright spark, and all sorts of wild, completely un-provable claims are made for this phenomena.

Like many in the past, Nology cleverly demonstrates a brighter free-air spark containing useless flash-over created by the crude 'capacitor' (effect) of this style of wire.  In reality, the bright spark has no more useful energy to fire a variable compressed air/fuel mixture than the clean spark you would see in a similar demonstration using any good carbon conductor wire.  What is happening in such a demonstration is the coil output is being unnecessarily boosted to additionally supply spark energy that is induced (and wasted) into the grounded braided metal sleeve around the ignition wire's jacket.  To test the validity of this statement, ask the demonstrator to disconnect the ground strap and observe just how much energy is sparking to ground.

Claims by Nology of their "HotWires" creating sparks that are "300 times more powerful," reaching temperatures of "100,000 to 150,000 degrees F" (more than enough to melt spark plug electrodes), spark durations of "4 billionths of a second" (spark duration is controlled by the ignition system itself) and currents of "1,000 amperes" magically evolving in "capacitors" allegedly "built-in" to the ignition wires are as ridiculous as the data and the depiction of sparks in photographs used in advertising material and the price asked for these wires!  Most stock ignition primaries are regulated to 6 amperes and the most powerful race ignition to no more than 40 amperes at 12,000 RPM.

It is common knowledge amongst automotive electrical engineers that it is unwise to use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves fitted over ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine.  This type of ignition wires forces its cable jackets to become an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the braided metal sleeves.  While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable jackets soon break down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark energy is induced from the conductors (though the cable jackets) into the grounded metal sleeves, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy lost via the braided metal sleeves.  Often this situation leads to ignition coil and control unit overload failures.  It should be noted that it is dangerous to use these wires if not grounded to the engine, as the grounding straps will be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or body) nearby.

Unless you are prepared to accept poorly suppressed ignition wires that fail sooner than any other type of ignition wires and stretch your ignition system to the limit, and have an engine with no electronic management system and/or exhaust emission controls, it's best not to be influenced by the exaggerated claims, and some vested-interest journalists', resellers' and installers' perception an engine has more power after Nology wires are fitted.  Often, after replacing deteriorated wires, any new ignition wires make an engine run better.

A:  As a coil heats up (and in a Voyager they really heat up) they break down a little.  What is the point that they breakdown too much?  Can you get the coils hot as in riding for 2 hours in 100 degree ambient temps and then connect them to a scope?  Then pull the wire off one of the plugs and 
gradually increase the distance to the plug and watch the scope to see if the coil is still firing the correct voltage (as in 15,000 volts, or even more).  I did this on a KZ1300 where I can get the tank off when it is very hot.  The stock KZ1300 new coils would only put out 7,000 volts.  I replaced them with Accel coils.  They now will put out over 40,000 volts.  

So if you have coils that only put out say 5000 volts they may work some times but not really have enough voltage to really burn the fuel.  On cars it takes 7,000 volts to run at idle.  And like running down the highway at say 70 mph it take like 11,000 to 12,000 volts.  When you force the accelerator to the floor it take up to like 40,000 volts to continue firing without any missing.  Our stock coils are not up to the task on the KZ or the Voyager.  Even when these bikes were brand new, the smart guys were taking the stock coils out and installing better performance coils.   Larry C.

Q:  I think I have found the ultimate answer to the replacement coil issue for the KZ1300.  I was getting parts for my friend's Buell at my local Harley shop and on a whim I asked to check out a few of their coils.  As it turns out most Harleys use a twin tower dual fire coil similar to what we use.  The coils we need come off of 1980 to 1999? Harley's without points ignition.  This is a two-tower two-wire coil with a primary resistance of 2.5 ohms!  And I saved the best news for last... brand new from the Harley shop these coils are $40 a piece!  If that is too expensive, I have found the exact same part number on Ebay for new coils for as low as $20 each with $4 shipping!  

I did some checking around and a lot of talking to several experienced Harley mechanics and riders that I know before I decided to go with these coils.  What they told me was this:

A:  The stock coil on the Harley is actually a high output coil to be able to deal with the higher compression and poor cold starting characteristics of the Harley.

B:  All those aftermarket coils that are available for Harleys are either almost identical in output and durability to the stock coil or are slightly higher output but not much.

C:  The reason that there are so many aftermarket coils available for Harleys is because people will buy performance parts for a Harley even if they don't need them because customizing Harleys has become more of a fad/fashion statement.

As far as how they work on our bikes, let me tell you, I can't believe how fast my 1300 JUMPS to life with these coils!  I put the coils on their own power circuit controlled by a relay that is triggered by the old coil power wire.  This new power wire is 12 gauge and it sends FULL battery voltage to the coils when the relay closes.  I put a 25 amp fuse on the new coil power circuit between the relay and the battery.  The Harley Davidson part number for the correct coil is: 31614-83A.  

As far as installation goes, I had to get a bit creative because they are a bit large but at the cheap price these things are I am willing to put in a bit of time.  I mounted one coil basically hanging from the back (rear) side of the existing coil tray under the tank.  To do this I took 2 long eye-bolts and opened up the eyes turning them into hooks, then I hooked them into two holes in the coil tray pointing them rearward.  I then slipped the bolt ends thru the mounting holes on the coil and using washers and nuts I pulled it up tight to the back side of the coil basket.  I know this puts the coil close to the cam cover but it does not hit and so far I have had no trouble with the heat.  These coils are made to mount BETWEEN the two cylinders of a large air-cooled V-twin after all.  

The second coil I mounted in the coil basket using a few bolts I had laying around.  The third coil I have not permanently mounted but I have it hanging securely from the left side upper horizontal frame tube as far forward as possible using a pair of THICK plastic cable ties.  I am planning on making a permanent mounting bracket there this winter.

I realize that this seems a bit cobbled but even with my lowers off you still can only see one coil just barely peaking out from under the tank.  I also recommend that you run a separate relay-activated power line straight from your battery to power these. (fused, of course!)  I triggered the relay with the normal coil power wire.  This will ensure that you have maximum voltage at the coils for start-up.  
I have had amazing starting performance using this system and a lot more power at higher RPM's because the coils are putting more spark to the plugs than the stock setup. and at under $20 a coil you can't beat the price!   Thanks again,  Brian S.

A:  I'm aware that some Harley coils are 2.5's,  but I wasn't aware that the output on these was that much better than our original Kawasaki coils.  There's a lot of stock Kawasaki, Yamaha, Honda or Suzuki bikes that use a 2.5 ohm coil but we're looking for a performance coil because the original and probably most other stock 2.5 ohm coils don't really put out enough spark to do much more than to just make our bike run OK.  It appears to me that our coils just barely worked when new.  I did see one high output coil listed for a Harley on ebay with a 2.75 ohm primary which is fine though, and a high output 2.9 ohm Harley coil which will still work, as the Accel's we were using were 3.0 ohm and anything from 2.7 to 3.0 ohm is in the range we want to be.  

There is a Screamin' Eagle coil listed also which actually seems like the way to go as it's advertised as 2.5 ohms and a 30,000 volt output.  The Nology's are advertised at 45,000 volts+ if you use their Hotwires but most guys are consider their wires to be overkill at $225 a set!  I don't know about the availability of the Screamin' Eagle coils but I'll check on it soon.  The good part though is there's 2 of these listed for $40 each and that's pretty cheap for a high output coil.  david@kz1300.com

A:  By Harley Davidson's own documentation, a "good" Harley coil will put out up to 20,000 volts at 22ma to the plug.  Dyna up to 40,000 volts at 39ma to the plug, Accel super spark 65,000 volts and 50ma to the plug, and 40,000 volts and 46ma to the plug, Nology 50,000 volts and 52ma. to the plug.  I wonder which is the better coil and which will fire plugs better.  Nology also advises using the widest gap while Accel says stay close to stock for best performance.   Mejing

Q:  Do you still think Accel coils are the way to go if they measure 3.0 ohms or are Nology coils a better option?

A:  Dyna or Nology is what's available in the correct ohm rating but also I just bought some 30K output Screamin' Eagle coils for a points type ignition Harley that are 2.5 ohms and got them on ebay for $40 each.  Problem is they're too big to fit in the stock locations so we would have to mount them somewhere else.  They're pretty large coils and there's really no room to fit them on a KZ unless yours has a fairing and you can hide them in there.  Accel's are OK if they're 3 ohms but not if they're any higher and most of the ones I've checked lately have been closer to 4 ohms and sometimes more.  NOT GOOD!  Spark will be too weak and that high of an ohm rating may damage the igniter somehow, throw off the dwell, cause timing problems or other issues that hurt performance. 

Dyna makes a 2.2 ohm and 3 ohm, so make sure you get the 3.0 ohm.  Still, I've never used Dyna's myself, but they are good coils and as far as I know everyone is using their 3 ohm coil on their 1300 with no problems.  The Nology's are small, light, easy to mount and put out the most voltage, but there was some concern about how long they will last with the heat they're subjected to when mounted just above our motor.  If it really turns out to be a problem we could mount them somewhere else I guess, but no one has reported a problem yet and a lot of guys including myself are running them now as of Oct/2006.  I've been running them in the stock location to see what happens and as of 10/06 I've had them on for over a year and put about 15,000 miles on the bike with these coils and no problems have surfaced.  david@kz1300.com

Q:  Hi Dave, I just bought the Harley coils and am starting the switch.  Do you know if there is a positive or negative to this coil?  The polarity is not marked at all.  Any help would be great!  Thanks, Mark W.

A:  If coils aren't marked then I have to assume the polarity doesn't matter.  Accel's are not marked and I had checked with Accel before on that, and they said because of the design of the coil polarity was not an issue.  I looked at my set of Harley coils and they aren't marked either.  The stock coils ARE marked and the Nology coils ARE marked + & - so those are specific which way the manufacturer wants them installed.  I never installed my Harley coils on a bike so I'd like to know for sure that they do in fact work OK for you, when installed and a follow up after 5000 miles or so.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  I have been browsing for replacement coils for my 84 Z1300.  I purchased a set of Accel's some time ago but haven't had time to fit them.  I have read the articles on your site for a number of years and have read about the Accel's not being suitable like they use to be.  I recently stumbled upon a web site that has coils with 2.7 Ohm rated coils which seem like they are more suitable.  Are these coils OK for our bikes?  Have you heard anything before about BLUE STREAK COILS?  David R.

A:  Never heard of the Blue Streak brand, but they look pretty much like the Screaming Eagle Harley coils I bought in size and shape which I mention above.  Not all these aftermarket coils will work even though they're the correct ohm rating.  Has something to do with the type of igniter on the bike you're mounting them on and the ignition dwell time overheating the coils from what I was told.

Apparently none of us have had a problem with Nology as late as 11/07, so I can say at this point all is well.  Other issue is the physical size of the coil itself and the fact that that Blue Streak and the Screaming Eagle are much too big to fit them in the stock location.  The Nology is actually smaller than the stock coil and fits right back in with room to spare as I show in the tech article.  Accel and Dyna both fit in the stock location, but the Blue Streak and the Screaming Eagle will have to be mounted elsewhere, and exactly 'where elsewhere' is the problem.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  Where did you come up with this 2.7 range?  My 81' has coils with a primary resistance of 1.2 to 1.9 ohms added to this is a ballast resistor with 1.7 ohms so I'm coming up with 3.2 ohms.  I got these numbers from the Kawasaki shop manual and confirmed them with my meter.  I've already fitted a .8 ohm coil pack and together with the stock 1.7 ohm ballast resistor I have 2.5 ohms.  I like your numbers as I'm already there, but I'm worried that I'll blow the igniter with too low of a resistance.  Page 240 of the official shop manual, table K6 gives the ballast resistance as 1.5 to 1.9 ohms, not the 1 ohm you have written about.  My ballast resistor is clearly marked as being 1.7 ohms.  Bill R. 

A:  I got that 2.5 reading from info originally supplied by Paul Bezilla and other members and it's posted on this FAQ page.  I think the point he was making is that 2.5 ohms is the minimum the CDI should have without taking substantial risks of burning it up and these newer automotive 6-pack coils that people have been asking about a lot lately are under 1 ohm.  Even with the ballast in the circuit, sometimes they just barely measure 2.5 ohms, but yes I think the ballast is supposed to be more like 1.5 to 1.9 ohms, so there is some variance.  I think 2.7 to 3.0 total ohms is perfect really but the 3.0 ohm rated coils that are available, generally read 3.5 and sometimes more as I've noted with the Accel's lately. 

The higher the ohms in the circuit the less secondary spark output and this spark output is what makes the bike run so much better.  So yes, there is some allowable variance as you note from the factory that should put us in the 2.7 to 3.5 ohm range on the coil input side of the igniter and even as low as 2.5 (at best guess) should still work for us. 

We have to have a cutoff point where we say 'no less than this' and 'best guess' is 2.5 ohms for a coil set or coils and ballast in combination whichever way you are going.  My Nology's measured 2.7 and Dyna's are supposed to be 3.0 ohm.  Either one of these 2.7 to 3.0 ohm coils should work perfect. 

Most of these GM coil packs made for a 6-cyl engine are rated at .7 to .9 ohms.  If you connect your ballast to that and measure 2.2 to 2.4 ohms I think I'd pass on that setup myself.  Might be a cheaper install, but it's not cheaper than buying a new igniter.  On the other hand if it measured 2.7 then I'd be tempted to use this setup except for one thing. 

I still want more than a 30k volt spark output, and the Nology, Dyna and Accel (Accel's at 3.0 ohms that is) should all qualify.  But I don't have an issue with guys out there running automotive coil packs on their 1300's.  I even made a page for them as I have a page for Accel, Nology and maybe Dyna in the future.  It's all about keeping the bike running and trying to give guidelines on what may or may not work.  I don't want a coil pack with a ballast in the circuit to make it work, because the ballast causes a voltage drop to the coils and that lowers your secondary output.  How much exactly I don't know.  Then you still have the issue of what if the ballast goes bad and shorts.  You have instant fried igniter for lunch.  These are things we're trying to avoid and we do avoid these issues using other types of coils.  

Yes, the coil packs are working as many owners that have done this conversion can attest, but looking at this setup I've decided to pass on it myself.  I'm all for saving money, but I don't see this as a great thing to save money on with this particular bike for the reasons stated above and that's just my opinion on the subject.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  I was wondering if you have to go with special wires when you use the Nology coils?  My bike has new wires and caps on the newer style stock coils and I would like to reuse them since they are new.  Vance S.

A:  You could use any brand spark plug wire wire, but with Nology or Accel coils you need female to female ends on the wires so you have to make sure you get a set that has the correct style ends and you should use a really good high performance wire like Accel, MSD, Jacobs, etc., that will handle a 50,000 volt spark.  I wouldn't expect cheap wires to work well with high output coils whether they're Accel, Dyna, GM or Nology coils we're talking about.  I use the more expensive wires that have a spiral wound conductor.  Also, I myself use 90 degree ends on the spark plug side because of the close clearance issues between the spark plug and the bottom of the gas tank, and you need 90 degree ends on the coil side too if you look at the way I've installed them.  Dyna coils take a male end on the coil side and of course a female end on the plug side.  So look at how you want to mount them and go to your local performance shop and buy a wire that works. david@kz1300.com

Q:  I have a 80' model KZ1300 that runs great when it is cool, and on warm days it runs great at highway speed.  On warm days after I get off the highway and drive in town it will usually die as I try to pull away from a stop sign.  After 10 to 15 minutes of cool down time it starts up fine and runs great again until it gets warm again.  (Identical to Phil's problem dated 3/31/2002)  I have replaced the CCT, installed Accel coils, and added heat barrier to the bottom of the tank and on the fuel line.  I just want to get my KZ as dependable as possible.  I haven't removed the fuel shut off valve.  I will continue to read your kz1300.com, and would appreciate all the help I can get.  I do have a manual, but this isn't in the trouble shooting area.   Marcus

A:  You might of taken note about my warning on the Accel install page - 
http://accel.zn1300.com  about recent high ohm readings on the primary side of the coil.  When the coil is hot the reading gets worse so measure the primary ohms and let me know what they read.  If they're 3 ohms when cold they may jump to 3.5 - 4.5 ohms when hot, and who knows what problems that could cause long term, but it could definitely make it stall and then restart when cooler.  You could also have a fuel delivery problem.  I would install a Pingel petcock as shown in my tech articles, reroute the gas line as shown and if need be, and maybe insulate the fuel line in case of vapor lock.   All of these mod's are mentioned on the site.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  I don't know what we would do without your great site here in OZ.  I have a problem with the ignition on the A3.  Just what the problem is has got me scratching my head.  The bike has only done something like 9000 miles since new in 1981 and has always been garaged.  The problem has only just started and is as follows.

Ignition only supplies one spark to each coil on starting.  One spark only then stops.  Battery is fine. All connections have been cleaned properly.  Igniter box has been tested on similar model and seems fine.  Coils are getting full 12 volts.  Ballast checks out at 1.9 ohms.  With ignition on, flicking on-off switch with clutch pulled in shows same one spark to coils.

Bike has shown symptoms of this problem over last 500 miles with motor cutting out and then re-starting after short break but now is a complete no-go.  There is mention of a "junction box" on the site but I am lost as to what exactly this item is and where it is located.  I have been over your site for clues and been through the manual but I am stumped.  Your assistance with this problem would be greatly appreciated.   Phil H.

A:  Junction boxes are on Voyager 1300's not the base models like yours.  Since you say that you checked the igniter on another bike and it worked OK then it seems reasonable to think that the igniter is probably OK.  81's did have a lot of ignition failures, as they are one year only parts and were upgraded to a better style ignition in 82'.  These days it's almost impossible to find 81' igniters or pickups, and there's no way to swap another year parts over as far as I can see as the 81' is unique. 

Another well known issue on these bikes were the ignition coils.  I've seen these with large cracks with as little as 7000 miles.  The # 2 issue I state on my site is change the coils and I'm betting that's your problem.  I've seen original coils that are still sparking but they weren't sparking hot enough to start the engine.  This engine responds well to a hot coil.  I'm using Nology coils myself as they're very reasonable on the price and the latest technology to boot.  Most are using Dyna coils or Accel or some other type. 

I've got lots of info and tech articles on replacing coils on my site.  I'd hate to see you spend the money and still have a problem, but I recommend you take the chance on new coils and just do it.  The people that have followed the recommendations on my site are the ones that are out riding their bikes.  No doubt you could still have a short in your wiring or something goofy like that going on there.  david@kz1300.com

Q:  I need a new igniter for my 81' KZ1300.  Do you have any info on the circuitry of the 81' igniter itself.  One would imagine that it would make sense to reproduce the igniter and sell it??  Lauri N.

A:  I'd love to have aftermarket igniters to sell, but aftermarket igniters don't exist to my knowledge.  Kawasaki is not going to share their igniter design with us and I don't know of another product that's available.  I'm going to use a module to control ignition on some custom DFI Kits I'm working on, but the module only works with the specific fuel injection computer I'm using.  I've contacted people in places like China, Argentina and so forth to make a replacement OEM style igniter box, but unless you're willing to buy at least 1000 - 10,000 units, forget it.  No one is willing to to make such a small run of 20 pieces, or 50 pieces which is all I could ever afford to buy.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  What type of wires and plugs do most guys use?

A:  I found the following notes on a website relative to using an aftermarket fuel injection on Harleys and I thought it was useful because he says "The biggest problem with spark plugs for Harley - Davidson engines is fouling", and that's typically our problem too: 

Three types of spark plug wires are commonly available: original equipment style carbon core suppression, low resistance spiral core, and solid core.  Carbon core suppression wires cause some energy loss due to their high resistance (about 5,000 ohms/foot).  Replacing carbon core suppression wires with low resistance spiral core wires only increases spark energy by about 10%.  Contrary to any claims, you will not see a performance improvement by changing spark plug wires.  On the other hand, carbon core wires can deteriorate over time and any wires more than a few years old are candidates for replacement.  If you are going to install new spark plug wires, buy a set of low resistance spiral core wires.  Most are less than 500 ohms/foot.  At that point, almost no energy is lost in the wire.  There are some new versions with very low resistance (50 ohms/foot), but the advantage is insignificant for the short lengths encountered in motorcycle applications.

Do not use solid core spark plug wires.  These radiate excessive electromagnetic noise that will cause radio interference and may even cause the processor in the ignition module to glitch.  We do not recommend Nology spark plug wires.  These have a partially shielded jacket that forms a energy storage capacitor.  When the spark plug fires, energy stored in this capacitor is rapidly discharged causing a short but intense arc discharge.  There may be some advantage if the spark plugs are fouled, but the Nology wires tend to radiate more electromagnetic noise.

How about spark plugs?  Contrary to much of the marketing hype, novel spark plug designs generally fail to show any measurable performance improvements.  Don't waste your money!  The biggest problem with spark plugs for Harley-Davidson engines is fouling.  The trick is to find a heat range that is a good compromise between fouling and pre-ignition.  A platinum tipped plug would also be a waste of money, since it would likely foul long before it eroded.  Stay with the recommended plug gap.

Use only resistor type spark plugs.  The non-resistor type radiate excessive electromagnetic noise that will cause radio interference and may even cause the processor in the ignition module to glitch.   david@kz1300.com

Q:  Took my stator off and it checked out good.  I still am not charging.  I start out with 12.72 volts on my new gel battery, drive two miles and drops to 12.64.  I assume the voltage regulator is the next obvious solution.  Anybody know how to test the voltage regulator on a bench?

A:  Rectifier Inspection: With the ignition switch turned off, remove the right side cover, and disconnect the 4-pin connectors (2) from the regulator/rectifier.  Using the X-10 or X-100 ohm range, check the resistance in both directions between the white/red lead and each yellow lead (in the 4-pin connector which leads to the alternator), and between the black lead and each yellow lead.  There is a total of 12 measurements.  The resistance should be low in one direction and more than ten times as much in the other direction.  If any two leads are low or high in both directions, the rectifier is defective and must be replaced.

Q:  I have a 79' KZ1300 with 117,000 mi., it seems to fry a stator every 15,000 mi.  The plug from the stator to the rectifier keeps melting and shorting the stator.  Any suggestions?

A:  I think I would remove the connector and solder the connections up and in fact, there is a tech article on this site that shows how to do it.  The next thing I would check is the stator wiring in the stator cover.  I want you to check if the little metal bracket that keeps the wiring out of the way of the rotor is in place in the cover.  Also if it is the right one and not some home made job.  The correct one will have the finished look of something the factory put there and the not the crude piece of jagged metal produced with a pair of dull shears and a hammer.  There are pictures of this posted on the 79' or 80' image pages.  

What I want to know specif