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Z1300 Valve Adjustment | ||
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Last Update 11/2/09
I'll take some more pictures of the tools used and I also have a chart I drew up that shows which valve to adjust at which crank position that will save you some time. The book tells you which valve to check at which crank position, but you can adjust some valves while you're checking others. I have a valve shim cross reference page too.
You pull the right side cover off and use a wrench to turn the crank to 3
different positions at 0 degrees #1 cylinder top dead center, 120 degrees and
240 degrees as marked on the rotor. You check or set valves at each of
these positions. This rotor is marked differently depending on whether
you're looking at a KZ1300 engine or a ZN1300. The following scans are
relevant to a KZ1300 motor as the cam timing is different on a ZN1300
motor.
As I understand it, the Z1300, KZ1300 and ZG1300 all have the same cams and cam timing. The ZN1300 Voyager either has different cams or the same cams and they're phased differently; maybe set at a slightly retarded position relative to the KZ1300 cams. The info on the ZN1300 valve adjustment is in the Supplement Manual not the base manual.
Page 66 
Page 67 
Page 68
Page 69 
Page 171 
Page 172
Page 173 
Page 174
While you're adjusting your valves you should observe the condition of the cam
chain idler gear shown here. This one is already worn much further than it
should be. If you look down in the motor from the other side, you can see
the nylon water pump bevel gear down below the cam chain idler gear. These
have been known to have broken teeth and should also be inspected while you have
the valve cover off. You can shine a light down in on the gear while you
have someone slowly turn the motor with a wrench.
This is what good used gears should look like.
This is a new cam chain idler gear which was still available from Kawasaki as
late as 10/05 but I ordered 5 more at that time and they're still on backorder
1-1/2 months later. These gears fit all 1300's.
While you've got the valve cover, for safety's sake off I always pull these
upper cam guide bolts out and turn them over. The way they're installed
from the factory they're put in from the top and have nuts on the bottom that
hold the guide to the top of the valve cover.
What happens if one of these nuts works its way loose and falls down in your
motor? Expensive repair if it gets repaired at all. This has
happened to others and I don't want it to happen to me.
I pull the bolts out and put them back in from the bottom out. Now the
nuts are on top and if one comes off, how long will it take that bolt to back
all the way out? A long time, but you do have to be more careful not to
scratch your hands up if you're working around this area.
To get the valve cover off you have to pull these reed valves out for more
clearance or the cover won't slip out. It's a good idea to carefully clean
these while they're out. Also make sure the holes are not clogged up or it
will defeat the purpose of the valves..
From the FAQ Page
Q: Could you please tell me how many links on the camshaft chain should be counted between the front and back camshaft?
A: The manual says to count 17 chain links - BUT you count the chain link over the mark on the exhaust cam sprocket as number 1 and the link over the mark on the inlet cam sprocket as number 17 (so the actual length of chain between marks is 16 links). There are a few other things to be aware of: The crankshaft should have cylinders 1 and 6 at TDC - depending on the model, line up the "T" mark on the alternator rotor either vertically against a mark or horizontally to the front against the crankcase joint (I think vertically on a 1984 model). If in doubt, check it by poking something down the spark plug hole. You must line up the BOTTOM of the circular mark on the exhaust sprocket as close as possible with the cam cover mating surface on the head (without the gasket in place). You may not get it spot on because of stretch in the chain. Also, there are two marks on the inlet cam sprocket 90 deg apart, be sure to line up the correct mark with link 17 BEFORE screwing the inlet camshaft bearing caps down. The correct alignment for link 17 mark it should be roughly vertical and the other mark toward the REAR of the sprocket. If you put link 17 on the wrong mark and screw the camshaft down you'll bend exhaust valve #2. I mark the correct alignment mark with a felt-tip pen to avoid inadvertent mistakes.
To check the valve timing do the following:
1. Pull right side alternator cover and valve cover.
2. On the circumference of the right side alternator you will find 3 marks. 1 mark has a T beside it, another mark has a 1 and the 3rd mark has a 2 beside it. The T mark is top dead center on #1 and #6 cylinder.
3. Using the bolt on the alternator turn the engine clockwise only till the T mark is just at the crankcase break between the top half and bottom half at the front of the crankcase. This would be about 90 degrees forward. This lines up the crankshaft at top dead center.
4. Look at the timing marks on the cams. The exhaust cam (the one toward the front of the engine has 2 marks. If the exhaust cam (and the engine is on #1) will have the mark just at or slightly below the surface of the mating of the valve cover. If the mark is nowhere near the try turning the crankshaft till the next time the T is at the mating surface or top dead center. Then look at the marks. Is the front mark at the mating surface or below the mating surface where the valve cover fits at the front? If slightly above then this cam is retarded. This cam must be correct before continuing.
5. After the exhaust cam is correct then look at the intake cam. On the exhaust cam looking straight up you will find another timing mark. This mark should be exactly straight up or just slightly in front of that. The matching mark on the intake cam should be in exactly the same position. There is a link count but I do not have that at this time. Just remember it must be exactly like the exhaust cam. Now the cams are correct. Larry C.
Q: Several members said they were indexing the cam for
best performance. But the cam sprockets are part of the cams. How are
you changing the relationship between cam and crank?
A: Do you have a degree wheel and know how to use it?
Without a degree wheel, you turn the crankshaft forward by the crank bolt.
There is a T, 1, 2 on the circumference of the right side Make sure to remove the CCT when pulling and moving cams and back in and snug when turning the crank and checking
the o. I do remember that the T on the alternator circumference should not be Remember the cam timing comes from the auxiliary shaft not the
crankshaft. The auxiliary shaft is driven through a chain that stretches over time.
If you have some miles on the bike, this chain will stretch enough to make cam timing retarded as much as 12 degrees or even
possibly more. I saw like 6 degrees retardation at 30000 miles 6 degrees retarded will make the engine sluggish, and run hotter.
The engine will be more peppy and run cooler when advanced. Although, I really would not want an engine running 14 degrees advanced because that
is really too much, the engine will perform better and run cooler that much advanced as opposed to 6 degrees retarded.
If you use a degree wheel, you will be able to measure the exact cam timing and see what I
am talking about. This timing change does not affect the ignition timing.
Ignition timing comes from the left side of the engine on voyagers and on KZ models from a separate chain from the auxiliary
shaft. The ignition will retard on the KZ and must be retimed to the crank T mark to be correct, and using the F mark in the dist.
Again If you have a choice, you want to advance the ignition timing by about 2 degrees.
The F mark in the dist is the factory offset of 10 degrees. Does this help?
I hope so and I hope you are not too confused by my very long dissertation.
Larry C. Q:
alternator. If you stop turning the crank when the T just gets to the split in the upper and lower case split at the front.
Then look at the indexing of the exhaust cam. There should be a o at the front side of
the cam. This o should be just below the surface that the valve cover gasket seats against.
If above then you have to move the cam 1 tooth forward to make it so. Then count the teeth from the o on the top of the
exhaust cam to the o on the top of the intake cam. There should be exactly on the 17th link.
That is a full link. That is how I remember. The book says to do the o on the exhaust cam like is said but then count
17 links from that o to the o on the top if the intake cam. Then check the o that should be at the back of the head and it should be just above
the valve cover mating surface.
past the mating joint and the o on the cams should be toward the forward slightly (like about 1/8") below on the exhaust and above on the intake
cam to be correctly timed. When you move the cam forward 1 tooth that = 20 degrees.
To be by the book correctly timed, the T is at the case split like I said.
And the o should be exactly on the mating surface of the valve cover. But you should never run the cams retarded even
slightly. If you have to be off, be off slightly advanced. A racer will
advance a cam usually about 4-6 degrees to gain the maximum anyway.
A: I had a similar problem with my ZN1300. Come to find out the valves were out of adjustment. It only had 50 lbs compression on 3 cyl's.... After I had them adjusted the compression was 170lbs on all 6 cyl's..... Have had no problem since.... The cost of having the valves adj was $291.00... The valve cover gasket for these 1300's is kind of pricey...about $85.00. There's a complete engine gasket set on ebay for $120 which is a better bargain.
Q: What is the procedure for correct valve timing?
A: First off you'll need to turn the alternator rotor so the "T" mark aligns with the mating surfaces of the block (#1 and #6 cyl - TDC), insert the exhaust cam, punch mark facing forward, even and level with the top edge of the head, (at this point I like to place the exhaust cam bearings in) carefully place the chain over the sprocket, insert the intake cam, making sure the FIRST punch mark on the intake cam sprocket is EXACTLY 17 links back from the punch mark on the exhaust cam. Remember, if the exhaust cam mark is on an inside link, count inside links, if the mark on the exhaust cam is on an outside link, count outside links, once satisfied that you've got it in right bolt the intake cam down, count the links again, when both cams are bolted down, insert cam chain tensioner, once its in and adjusted, count the links again, the second punch mark on the intake cam should align flush with the back edge of the head, ok.. next.. turn the motor slowly and very carefully clockwise, any resistance is a valve into a piston, DO NOT FORCE (disassemble and start over,) if it goes around with out incident, congratulations you did it right! SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE COULD RESULT IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY,...... BE SURE!
Q: Does anyone know a source of new inlet valves?
A: http://www.cyclewareables.com They have valves for most of the older bikes and Klasmo in Germany is listed on the links page and they should have them too.
Q: What about shimming the valves? Can I use the tools from my KZ1000?
A: Well the technique for changing the shims is the same, ergo the tools will work. The 29mm shims for the KZ900, KZ1000, KZ1100, KL600, KL650, KLX650, KZ1300, ZN1300, Yamaha XS400, XJ550, FJ600, FZ600 and YX600 are all the same as are Yamaha XJ650, XJ750, XS750, XS850, XS1100, XS 850, BMW K 750, 1000, K750, K1000, Kawasaki KLR650, KLR600, KL KLR 650, 600, Z1900, KZ 1000, 900, 1100, & 1300 so I've been told. Be aware that there are 29.5mm shims in some makes/models of motorcycles and they look just like our 29mm shims but they won't work because they're .5mm too large!
A: So you need the manual to see which cylinder you measure each intake or exhaust at each of the 3 timing marks.
You don't shim the valve at the same place you measure it, or at least I don't.
I like the lobes straight up when I put the tool in, but you'll get the feel of this.
Do be sure to cover the crankcase when you're pulling shims. If you drop one, and you will drop at least one, if it falls in the bottom of your crankcase woe to you!
There's a pattern in the back of the book that shows how to cut a piece of cardboard that will fit in the cam chain area and block that off.
The hot tip is that I make the cardboard in two pieces and cut them long in the center so they overlap.
Much easier to get in and out than a single piece, and then you don't have to cut the holes to grab it with.
You'll see what I mean when you see the pattern. You can't just throw a towel down in there, because you're turning the engine and the cam chain will catch on the towel and pull it into the gears.
You'll see.
If you don't listen to the part about covering the hole up thinking you'll just be real careful, and you won't drop a shim, have you really thought long and hard about what it will take to get it back out?
You'll see. Yeah, trace the pattern out on a piece of cardboard so we don't have to explain to you how to fish shims out of the bottom of the motor.
Too bad they don't just fall in the oilpan and make it easy for you.
Look at the bottom of your motor again. If you drop something in the front by the crankshaft, why would you think it would make it back to the pan?
It doesn't. Shims can usually be bought on ebay if you're lucky enough to be high bidder.
But there's only one high bidder, and a fair price for good used shims like this are $5 each.
New, you'd pay $10 each. Look for a local mechanic that works on older bikes.
It was a common shim and I have a cross reference on the FAQ page that shows all the different bikes that used a 29mm shim.
Sometimes they'll trade shims with you. Most desirable sizes are #250 down to #200.
You'll end up with the larger ones as you trade them for smaller ones. The valves always wear to a tighter clearance, meaning you're always taking bigger shims out and replacing them with smaller shims.
david@kz1300.com
Q: What are the valve clearance spec's for the Voyager 1300? My bike is hard to start.
A: The original specifications for the CLEARANCES on the valves are from .05mm - .15mm for the intake valves, and from .15mm to .25mm for the exhaust - (that is .002 to .006 inches for the intake and .006 to .010 for the exhaust). Chances are that if you have driven the bike long with the clearances to low, you have already burnt some of the valves to the point where adjusting them will not fix the problem, and you will need to do a valve job.
I always set my valves to the looser end of the range. For the valves that give a .002 to .006, I try to set them about .005-.006. For the valves that should be from .006 to .010, I try to set them about .009 to .010. The valves wear to a tighter setting. With a shim and bucket with an overhead cam, the only thing that will wear is the valve face and the seat. These 2 items make the valves tighter. I could always go in at say 3k and make an adjustment someplace. Would it be better than it was? Probably not. But by my opinion, it was needed so that I could keep you coming back for another needed adjustment. With .004 range between min and max there is always someplace I could change something but not really necessary. These valves are really forgiving. I guess it is good to at least have a good starting point but then just leave them alone. If you do have to remove any shims, make sure that that valve is not over a piston that is on top. By pushing the bucket down (and valve) to remove the shim, if the piston is TDC (top dead center) then there is a chance you could damage (bend) a valve. Larry C.
Q: Where do I get the tool to do the valve adjustment?
A: These are on ebay every week by multiple sellers for about $8 - $12 depending on who you buy from. Same tool works for KZ750 Twin, Z1900, KZ900, KZ1000, KZ1100, & KZ1300. It's a Motion Pro part # 35-3457. Search 'Motion Pro KZ1300' or maybe 'Motion Pro Kawasaki' in titles only, or titles and descriptions if nothing turns up searching just titles. david@kz1300.com
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ONE SIDE NOTE:
When you have your valve cover off you can't drop anything down inside your motor!!! If you do you'll be crying, because the chances of you getting whatever fell in there back out without pulling the motor and splitting the cases is slim and none! If it's in the pan, you can pull the pan and that's not too bad. Your other option is using a magnet and try going on a fishing expedition from the top.
There is one other option, and that's to pull the alternator cover and/or the starter cover on either end of the crankshaft. There is a small oil drain opening on both sides where you can see the bottom of the crankshaft all the way across. If it's a valve shim you dropped, you may see it laying there and fish it out with a magnet. Lucky you!
NOTE: On these newer browsers I've noticed that they don't always display my large images in full size when you open an image from the thumbnails. Once you click the thumbnail and open the larger image, if you 'mouse over' the image you should see a " + " symbol or some other indicator like a box with arrows usually on the bottom right edge of the image. If you click on the indicator, then the image will expand to it's full size which displays full screen on computers that use a 800 x 600 resolution setting for the monitor. If you click the indicator again it will go back to the smaller image. Some people use a resolution setting of 1024 x 768 or higher on their monitors and for those users the images will appear smaller than full screen in size. You can change your monitor settings easily enough if you desire. Also, the indicator I've noticed is slow to appear even after the image appears to of completely loaded. The indicator in Netscape seems to be a lot faster to display than the one in Internet Explorer.
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