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ZN1300 Fuel Pump | ||
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ZN1300 Fuel Pump
Last Update 10/12/08
I'm not sure exactly how this design
actually pumps fuel from looking at the parts that make it up but looking at the
2 images above, the gas comes in on the left and is pressurized when it gets
trapped between the little cylinders spinning inside the housing somehow.
Then the gas runs across the armature and all the motor parts are bathed in
gas. I don't know how fast this thing spins but it works well enough to
pump 35 lbs of fuel pressure into our fuel injection system!
You can see that some of the cylinders are corroded up or rusty, so I imagine that letting the bike sit far a couple of years with old gas in it is not a great thing for the pump. Since all you have to do is turn the key on and the pump will run for 5 seconds and cut off, this might be a good thing to do every month if you bike is sitting up for the winter. You can turn the key on and off a few times and this will help to keep the pump from messing up from sitting for long periods without running.
On occasion I have been able to get an old put going again by putting some Marvel Mystery oil down the inlet and letting it soak in. There's a very small 'sock' in the inlet or small nylon screen to trap small particles in the fuel and keep them out of the pump. Yours may or may not have one as these usually got plugged up and people pulled them out as I do. Sometimes, I install 2 filters before the pump instead of the original 1 filter if the gas tank looks rusty inside.
At any rate, if your pump is not working and the bikes been sitting for a few weeks or longer, you may want to try pulling the pump off and putting some penetrating oil down the inlet. Leave the inlet pointing up and let that soak in. After some time if you see the oil has worked its way in the motor you can hook a battery to it and see if it will run. Take care to check the polarity of the wires when you hook it to a battery. They're not marked on the pump so you just need a test light and hook one end to the negative terminal of the battery. Turn your ignition key on and you'll get power to one or the other wires from the harness. If your light is hooked to the negative side then the one that lights up is the positive feed for the pump. Make sure you hook you battery up accordingly or you can just plug it back into the bikes wiring harness and turn the key on to test it.
If it doesn't come on try tapping it modestly with a hammer. It may pop on and start working when you tap on it. Put it back together and go ride. If not, check the FAQ page for options on possible matching pumps from other bikes or cars. There are a couple of possibles listed. On my kits now, I use one off a 1980 Datsun 280Z fuel injected car.
Maybe my statement is too brief above about
the nylon sock in the fuel pump inlet because people don't seem to be aware of
these, but the inlet is the larger 1/2" side, and it's that large because it has these nylon screens, or 'socks' stuck in it.
It's the only inline style fuel pump I've seen so far that is designed like
this. But I notice that most of the newer pumps that are made to fit inside the gas tank, also have a wire
mesh screen around the inlet and a filter, all mounted to an assembly up inside
the gas tank.
So I guess there's a couple of ideas here on improving our stock fuel pump and
eliminating fuel restrictions issues. You can also get rid of the funky stock 5/16" to 1/2"
'U' shaped adapter hose that has to be purchased from Kawasaki, and the more or less unique fuel filter these bikes use.
Take the fuel pump out, flip it around basically opposite of the way it was originally mounted, where the inlet is on your left
now, and the outlet is on the right.
Slide it a little further left than normal in it's mount, and point the outlet side straight up and out slightly, where the pressure hose won't interfere with the frame right there.
Shorten your hose to the right length and connect that back up.
Now you have a shorter hose on the pressure side running straight up to the fuel rail on the injectors.
At $6 - $7 per foot for high pressure hose, you just saved $7 by reducing the high pressure side hose run by about 12".
OK, on the inlet side, if I use 2 filters, I mount one filter right up near the petcock, because there's just enough room up there to fit it in.
I use just common generic straight through filters you can buy at any auto parts store and a word of caution here.
Originally I bought a bunch of clear plastic filters off ebay because I thought it would be nice to be able to see the gas flow
through and see how dirty the filter was. The problem is that although the suction side of this pump is not strong enough to collapse the plastic filter, when you turn the bike off and shut the petcock off and let it sit for awhile, apparently it builds up a vacuum between the petcock and the pump and then it collapses the filter
body some.
I don't know the exact science behind why this happens, but we probably have some technical people on the
discussion group that knows why and they can fill you in on the details. So you say, well isn't the filter I have on there now made of plastic?
Yes it is, but it's made out of a lot stiffer plastic material than the filters I bought
which were made from a softer plastic. So you can't use a soft plastic filter like I ended up with or it may collapse on you.
This is what happens sometimes when you buy off ebay and you can't touch and
feel the product you're buying. I can use these filters on my lawnmower and other gas powered lawn / garden machines, but not on the bike.
So you can buy generic metal filters as well as plastic, but how do I rig up the inlet side?
If you look at my DFI conversion pages, first you'll see comparison pictures of high pressure fuel hose versus low pressure hose -
http://www.kz1300.com/techarticles/z1300-dfi-conversion.html
It's very important that you take note of the differences in this hose because I've seen too many bikes come in with the low pressure hose fitted on the high pressure side and they looked like they were ready to pop!
High pressure hose HAS TO BE FITTED from the pressure side of the pump to the fuel rail; on all the little short hoses on the injectors themselves; and from the fuel rail down to the fuel pressure regulator.
You can use standard 5/16" fuel line from the petcock to the fuel pump inlet, and from the pressure regulator back the the fuel return connection on the gas tank.
Those hoses are not under more pressure than standard hose is designed for.
So, back to the fuel pump inlet, On my DFI conversion page 3 -
http://www.kz1300.com/z1300-dfi-kit.html
Here is an image of what you need -
http://www.kz1300.com/dfi-conversion-kit5542s.jpg
and here's the pump with the adapter as installed on a KZ1300 -
http://www.kz1300.com/81-kz1300-kentucky4535s.jpg
But you'll be using the same 90 degree adapter on the Voyager. It's a 1/2" to 5/16" step down fitting and a right angle.
That's 3 pieces of brass from the local hardware to make that. The white stuff is thread tape.
Can't have gas leaks, right! So, the high pressure output is on the right side now, and you point it straight up.
Use the right angle connector on the input side, and by the way, you CAN get 1/2" fuel line hose. Don't use heater hose!!! It will degenerate pretty fast and leak. If your auto parts says they can't get 1/2" fuel line, it's not because they really can't get it, it's simply because nobody buys it from them. They don't buy it because they don't have a market for it. That's an airplane kind of thing. Go to a small airport where there's an airplane mechanic that works on single engine planes. You only need 3" for that connection. Trade him a beer for it!
On that same page just below, you'll see the regulators I'm using on my kits.
You should also be fitting on of these to your bike, so you can crank up your fuel pressure about 10psi over stock.
After I get a clean install done on my Voyager, I'll post some pictures of how I
mounted it.
Only issue with these cheap adjustable regulators which I also state on the page is that you have to install 90 degree brass fittings on them, and they aren't tapped with 1/8" pipe thread style threads.
All the cheap ones I've bought off ebay so far all had a standard straight thread in them, not a pipe thread.
Maybe if you buy a more expensive regulator you shouldn't have this problem, but I've just been tapping new threads in them myself.
I've tried 4 different regulators now and no luck with getting a cheap one with pipe threads.
So you position the fuel pump so the outlet side is pointed correctly, use this 90 degree fitting on the left and position it so it will point out and up, basically like the pressure side does.
Then all you need to do is run your fuel line down from the first filter to the second inline filter.
It's a tight fit to get it all in under the right side-cover, and what I did actually was to unscrew the little fuse box there, that's mounted on the top of the voltage regulator, and flip it on it's side.
The inline filter won't fit in the stock position so you just have to find a place for it and squeeze it in best you can.
Moving the little fuse box helped me fit it in better. Make sure the
side-cover will snap on after you're done.
Now you've solved your fuel restriction problems. You've eliminated problem parts that had to be bought from Kawasaki and you've got filters now that can be purchased from any parts store.
Of course if you're one of these guys that wants the bike totally stock, I guess once a year you could carefully pull out the nylon screen, clean it and put it back in.
Nothing wrong with that idea either assuming you can get it out and in without
damaging it. I haven't been able to do that myself.
For sure I wouldn't use on of these unless you use the adjustable regulator as I show, because these are capable of putting out probably over 100 psi, where our stock pump maxed out at 60
psi. I don't think the stock regulator can handle this pump though the pump itself is the perfect size and fit.
I think we may run into a problem where the fuel goes through the system and returns to the tank so fast it may starve for fuel on the inlet side.
I haven't experienced this problem, but it looks like we're close to that by watching the flow.
Of course I'm using a high flow Pingel petcock, an adjustable regulator, and no restriction in the tank on the return.
A ZN has a restriction in the return line because you have a spring loaded return valve.
So all I'm saying is that using these pumps is not a cut and dried bolt it on an you're good to go.
I've done 2 DFI kits with them and they are both working OK as far as I know.
Adding the adjustable regulator would be an absolute must if you use one of these.
Putting new high pressure fuel line on while you're doing this conversion is real smart.
Will it work for everyone? I think so, and we'll know more when people start converting to them, putting the adjustable regulators on, and so forth.
I can't do everything or test every possible combination of different ways of installing things.
But 2 people are using these pumps right now on KZ's that are running essentially the same fuel injection system the
ZN's have. Figure out how to put that adjustable regulator in the system, use some of the pictures from my DFI kit page as a guideline and send me the pictures of your install.
The Autozone pump was $110 as I recall. The wiring part is easy. Let me know how it turns out.
ZN1300 Air Temp Sensor
Here's some pic's I took of the location of the ZN1300 Voyager air temp sensor
should you ever need to replace it.
NOTE: On these newer browsers I've noticed that they don't always display my large images in full size when you open an image from the thumbnails. Once you click the thumbnail and open the larger image, if you 'mouse over' the image you should see a " + " symbol or some other indicator like a box with arrows usually on the bottom right edge of the image. If you click on the indicator, then the image will expand to it's full size which displays full screen on computers that use a 800 x 600 resolution setting for the monitor. If you click the indicator again it will go back to the smaller image. Some people use a resolution setting of 1024 x 768 or higher on their monitors and for those users the images will appear smaller than full screen in size. You can change your monitor settings easily enough if you desire. Also, the indicator I've noticed is slow to appear even after the image appears to of completely loaded. The indicator in Netscape seems to be a lot faster to display than the one in Internet Explorer.
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