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Z1300 / ZN1300 Engine Removal | ||
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Z1300 / ZN1300 Engine Removal | ||
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Last Update 8/22/08
These first pictures give you an idea of where to place your straps and what should be taken off the motor prior to removal. This one was being stripped to the bare frame, but what you need to get off for clearance mainly is the valve cover, oil pan and radiator hose outlet. I've even slipped them out with the valve cover still on. Once you get the oil pan off you want to pull the oil pickup tube which will be sticking down & may get damaged otherwise. Just 3 Phillips head screws to remove that & then you have all the space you need to slip the motor out. I use ratcheting tie-downs to wrap around the motor, but although I had the ratchets on the bottom here, they're in the way and should be ratcheted up on the back side where the carbs would normally be.
Once it's out you should have a dolly to set it on so you can roll it around
your shop. I make up cheap motor dollies with 2x4's nailed together in a
square shape and
4 casters so I can roll the motors around when I need to. I also have a
nice metal one with extra large casters I use to paint and test run engines on.
ZN1300 Engine Removal
This rubber boot over the u-joint can be difficult to deal with while you're
trying to break the 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft on. The boot will
slide forward with a little persuasion and try not to poke any holes it, but
here's what I do; once I get it moved forward, I slip some small tie wraps
through as you see in the image and tighten them around the rubber boot.
To break the bolts on the driveshaft you need a tool to hold the driveshaft from turning. I have some factory KZ tools and I bent the end of one to fit down in there in the u-joint just right so I could hold it. Suffice to say you could probably use one of those cheap small pry bars like you might find for sale at a truck stop, or use a heavy piece of 1.5" - 2.0" steel flat bar and bend it to the correct angle. You might have to grind the end some to get it to fit in just right.
If you pull the oilpan and the oilpan pickup you can pull the motor without
taking the valve cover off. The 3 screws that hold the pickup on can be
difficult getting loose when you're laying on your back reaching up with oil
dripping on your hands. I use an impact driver to break the screws.
Every mechanic has one of these and a selection of tips to go with it, right?
You have to pull the motor out the right side. I use a good quality ratchet
tie down as it's more than strong enough for the job.
Now that you've got the motor out, here's what it looks like inside.
Wouldn't hurt to inspect your transmission gears and shift forks among other
things. david@kz1300.com
NOTE: On these newer browsers I've noticed that they don't always display my large images in full size when you open an image from the thumbnails. Once you click the thumbnail and open the larger image, if you 'mouse over' the image you should see a " + " symbol or some other indicator like a box with arrows usually on the bottom right edge of the image. If you click on the indicator, then the image will expand to it's full size which displays full screen on computers that use a 800 x 600 resolution setting for the monitor. If you click the indicator again it will go back to the smaller image. Some people use a resolution setting of 1024 x 768 or higher on their monitors and for those users the images will appear smaller than full screen in size. You can change your monitor settings easily enough if you desire. Also, the indicator I've noticed is slow to appear even after the image appears to of completely loaded. The indicator in Netscape seems to be a lot faster to display than the one in Internet Explorer.
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