TOPIC:

hi,

i am trying to get this american 1979 model kz1300 to start which i bought a little while ago.

unfortunately when i bought there were bits missing and disconnected from where they should be...

i am slowly narrowing things down but for a couple of items which i think are:

1 air solenoid ??????????? see diagram
2 fuel solenoid ??????????? see other diagram




my questions are....

what are these two items correctly called?
what are they in use for?........(i have an idea but please confirm)

- in the case of the fuel solenoid which is bolted just under the carbies and is currently still in place, the hose numbered 92059 in the picture, is this the end that goes to the fuel tank?
and would i be correct to say that a hose from the carbies will go into the top bare tube of this solenoid?

* in the case of the air solenoid which is currently missing from my bike, can someone tell me where is this piece located and positioned on the bike? is it bolted on somewhere?
also in the other picture, where do the larger rubber tubes numbered 31, 32 and 33 go into - and where do the smaller rubber tubes 2 x 30 go into?

many thanks in advance

The air solenoid was a US- only emissions control. While complicated-looking, all it really is is an air tube from the air box to the top of the valve cover with a check valve in the middle. All it does is inject clean air into the exhaust pipes to pass emission standards. It doesn't bolt to anything, it just sort of sits on top of the engine block. Most people (myself included) just toss it, with no I'll effects. The only reason to really have it is for historical accuracy. Search eBay for "KZ1300 smog pump" and you'll see a million of them.

As far as how it hooks up- the large hose in the rear hooks to a hole in the top front of the air box. The two larger hoses connect to openings on the top of the valve cover, right above the exhaust camshaft. The smaller T-ed hoses connect to the openings on the engine intakes of cylinders 3 and 4, in between the carbs and engine block. The valve just sort of sits on top of the engine, held in place by the hoses. Not the greatest setup, if you ask me.

The fuel solenoid is a similar case. Ideally, fuel goes from the tank, into the side, up out the top and into the carbs, while the actual solenoid hooks up to a connector on the wiring harness under the fuel. When the bike is on and the kill switch is on "run", the valve will open to let fuel through. Problem is, they weren't very reliable, and had a tendency to fail, stranding you with no fuel (but a full tank) in the middle of nowhere. These are harder to find, again, because most people toss them. If you remember to shut the petcock after every ride, you really don't need one.

yeah thanks lucien.
im trying to get this thing started but i cant get fuel into the carbies for some reason.
perhaps i should by pass the fuel solenoid and go from fuel tank straight into the carbies....might work..?

It can't hurt. The "correct" fuel line routing is a bit wonky, with lots of chances for the line to get kinked. Especially if you're just starting out, eliminate as many variables as possible.

Check the gas cap vent as well. A clogged vent can prevent fuel from flowing as well. Best of luck.

Hello Met:

Regarding your fuel line question.

The top port of the fuel solenoid valve is the one that goes to the carburetors. The port on the side is fed from the fuel tank.

To determine if your solenoid works, do and observe the following.
1: Assuming you have it connected to the wiring harness and if it's working, turn on the key, pull in the clutch lever, without starting the engine. You should hear the valve open, and you can feel it open by placing your fingers on it. If that is not happening you have a wiring problem, or a solenoid problem. One of the conditions for fuel to flow is having the clutch switch depressed to pwr the solenoid. Just the first pull of the clutch will constantly pwr the solenoid as long as the key is not turned to the off position.

2: If you wonder if you are getting fuel past the solenoid, pull the hose off of the top of the solenoid. Install a long fuel hose on the top port and place it in a fuel can. Turn on your fuel tap, turn the key to the ON position, pull in the clutch. Fuel should flow out of the top of the valve.

3: If it doesn't, you can pull the solenoid and remove the two screws, open the top fuel chamber and see if there is any debris lodged in that small passage.

4: Some say in this forum to just remove and chuck this valve in the trash can. Some prefer to keep their bike stock and original. It just depends on what camp you are in.


My valve and the valve on every 1300 I have owned has worked. During each carburetor overhaul, I pay attention to that solenoid valve and clean it too.

As for your "Air Solenoid" aka air suction valve. That valve is supported by the large Air Suction Hose on either side of the valve. It is not bolted to the frame. The rear hose is stuffed inside the air cleaner so filtered air goes into the air suction system.

Again, this is one of those systems where there are two camps. Some say trash the system. Others say retain the system and keep the bike as original as possible.

If you remove the air suction system. You will need to cap off the ports above the cylinder head on either side of the valve cover. I would recommend two caps, one on each side. Using a crossover tube is no recommended. Or you can locate an EU or AU model that has no tubes on the valve cover, a cleaner solution. Once removed you will not notice any difference in the way the engine runs. Unless the air suction valve system was malfunctioning. Improper operation of that system can cause back fires to occur. But it does not rob hardly any H.P.

Regards.

T.